【作者】 谷慧； 郑晓阳； 孙德军；

【Author】 Hui Gu;Xiaoyang Zheng;Dejun Sun;Key Laboratory of Colloid and Interface Chemistry, Ministry of Education, Shandong University;

【机构】 胶体与界面化学教育部重点实验室山东大学化学与化工学院；

【摘要】 功效型化妆品中存在的天然提取物具有较高的抗氧化、美白等功能,但有些活性因子对光、热的不稳定性以及水溶解能力差,因此选择适宜的载体实现活性组分的有效传输是亟待解决的问题。首先,我们基于羟丙基β环糊精-反式白藜芦醇的主客体相互作用,利用共沉淀-冷冻干燥法制备超分子白藜芦醇,并通过FT-IR、DSC、SEM对其进行表征,结合DPPH自由基清除率测得其水溶液具有较强抗氧化活性,同时极大提高了光照稳定性。随后,利用低能乳化的方式制备了含有超分子白藜芦醇的纳米乳液,结合ESR测得乳液具有优异的抗氧化功能,并具有稀释稳定性。同时,这种超分子白藜芦醇具有界面活性,能起到协同稳定乳液的作用,乳液稳定性机理可以通过小粒径、高Zeta电位、较低的界面张力等得到解释。从而进一步探讨主客体识别作用在化妆品模型体系中的存在及作用机理,为实现配方中组分稳定性提供一定的科学依据。更多还原

【Abstract】 The natural extracts have found extraordinary antioxidation and whitening functions in cosmetics, while some extracts are sentitive to heat, light or solubility. Therefore, it is an urgent problem to select suitable carrier for efficient delivery of the active component. Firstly, we prepared supramolecular resveratrol by coprecipitation-freeze drying based on the host-guest interaction of hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin-trans resveratrol, and it characterized by FT-IR, DSC and SEM. Combined with DPPH free radical scavenging rate, we found its solution has extraordinary antioxidant capacity and light stability also has been greatly improved. Subsequently, nanoemulsion containing supramolecular resveratrol was prepared by low-energy emulsification. The nanoemulsion with excellent anti-oxidation measured by ESR and dilution stability. At the same time, the supramolecular resveratrol has interfacial activity and can synergistically stabilize the emulsion. The emulsion stability mechanism can be explained by small particle size, high zeta potential, low interfacial tension and the like. In order to further explore the existence and mechanism of the recognition of the host-guest in the cosmetic model system, it provides a scientific basis for the stability of the components in the formulation.更多还原