服装面料再造与立体造型的创新应用研究

【作者】 宋洁；

【导师】 宋晓雁；

【作者基本信息】 青岛大学 ， 工业设计工程（专业学位）， 2021， 硕士

【摘要】 中国传统文化为设计师提供新的灵感来源和设计思路,为服装设计领域拓展更大的发展空间,带来视觉享受的同时传承传统文化。本文探究传统的东方服饰色彩及面料肌理与中华传统的民族观念、处世之道和价值观之间的关系,传承经典发扬文化的同时使其适应现代的审美情趣,创作新时代具有“东方精气神”的现代服饰。研究中国传统文化对服饰发展的影响,吸取相关品牌的优点与经验。基于美国Atrs Of Fashion 2020 Competition国际时尚创意比赛主题“隐形”创作系列作品。作品从磁场的运动轨迹获得灵感,表达“隐形”的同时使作品富有节奏感的线条美,同时从水墨画的绘画风格以及手法中受到启发对服装基础面料进行二次设计,探究传统植物染料影响印染效果的面料本身,以及温度,时间,染料浓度和印染手法所带来的不同晕染效果,其中线条的流畅度,色彩晕染的韵律感通过立体造型表现手法实现。摸索具有“东方精气神”的现代服饰的创作规律,通过制作小系列成衣作品,总结工艺制作方法,为未来国内服装设计更加具有东方韵味提供参考。更多还原

【Abstract】 Traditional Chinese culture has brought new inspiration and design ideas for designers,which expands larger development space for fashion design.Furthermore,it brings brand-new visual feelings and inherits traditional culture at the same time.This thesis explores the relation between the colors of traditional eastern fashion and fabric texture,as well as national ideas,ways of life and value opinions in China.The author tries to inherit traditional culture and make fashion adapt to modern aesthetic value,then to create modern fashion with “eastern spirit features” in the new era.By studying the influence of traditional Chinese culture on fashion development,this article combines the advantages and experience of related brands in China and foreign countries.A series of works “invisible” are created through US ARTS OF FASHION 2020 COMPETITION.The works acquired inspiration from the movement of magnetic field,while the “invisible” expression made the works have a rich sense of rhythm.Meanwhile,inspired by the style and skill of ink painting,the author conducts secondary design on basic fabric to explore the influence of traditional vegetable dyes on dyeing effect,as well as the different outcomes brought by temperature,time,concentration and technique.Among them,fluency of lines and rhythm sense of colors are realized by 3D style expression skills.This article tries to find the creation pattern of modern fashion with “eastern spirit features”,and finally produces small series of ready-made works,summarizes technical process,then provides reference for the domestic fashion design in China to have more eastern charm.更多还原