【作者】 刘玉；

【导师】 茅丹； 谢海明；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 艺术设计（服装设计）（专业学位）， 2019， 硕士

【摘要】 盘金绣是将金线、银线盘成图案,再用绣线将其钉缝固定于面料上的针法。刺绣是女装设计的主要装饰手法,也是女性内衣的主要装饰技法,本文将中国传统的盘金绣技法运用在内衣设计上,既是对国家非遗技艺的发扬,同时也是对创造出有民族特色的内衣产品的创造性实践。本文的研究方法主要运用文献调查法、案例分析法、实地考察和设计实践法。通过查阅文献资料,理清了盘金绣的概念和来源;通过对法门寺地宫出土的蹙金绣五件和清代盘金绣肚兜藏品的分析,总结提炼出盘金绣的艺术特征,主要包括对盘金绣的图案、色彩、布局和针法的总结。通过实地考察以及走访苏州剧装戏具公司、拜访老一辈手艺人,进一步加深对盘金绣的整体认识。最后通过设计实践,对盘金绣在内衣设计上的应用进行了一系列设计探索。主要将盘金绣绣制的传统吉祥纹样运用在现代女性内衣设计上。中国具有几千年的内衣文化,内衣时尚是服饰文化的象征。在当今新时代,进一步挖掘中华优秀文化,在内衣设计领域积极运用中国的传统手工技艺是发展的需要。设计师要中西结合,不断设计出有民族特色的内衣产品,展现当代中国时尚新风貌。更多还原

【Abstract】 Nail gold embroidery is the stitch the gold thread and the silver thread into a design,to fasten its stitch on fabrics.Embroidery is the main decorative technique in women’s wear design,and also the main decorative technique in women’s underwear.This paper applies the traditional Chinese plate gold embroidery technique in the underwear design,which is not only the development of national intangible cultural heritage technology,but also the creative practice of creating underwear products with national characteristics.The research methods of this paper are the literature survey,the case analysis,investigation and design practice.Through consulting literature,the concept and source of nail gold embroidery are clarified.Through the analysis of five pieces of Cujin embroidery unearthed from the underground palace of Famen temple and the belly pocket collection of nail gold embroidery in the Qing dynasty,the artistic features of nail gold embroidery are summarized,including the pattern,color,layout and stitching of nail gold embroidery.Through the field trip and visit the Suzhou opera outfit company,visit the older generation of craftsmen,to further deepen the overall understanding of gold embroidery plate.Finally,through the design practice,the application of nail gold embroidery in the underwear design is explored.It mainly applies the traditional auspicious patterns of gold embroidery in modern women’s underwear design.China has thousands of years of underwear culture,underwear fashion is the symbol of clothing culture.In today’s new era,it is necessary to further explore the excellent Chinese culture and actively apply Chinese traditional handicraft skills in the field of underwear design.Stylist wants Chinese and western union,design the underwear product that has ethical distinguishing feature ceaselessly,to show contemporary China fashionable new style.更多还原