【作者】 张腾；

【导师】 赵明；

【作者基本信息】 北京服装学院 ， 设计学， 2016， 硕士

【摘要】 20世纪10年代是传统女装向现代女装发展的过渡时期。这一时期女装的造型和结构清晰反映了中西方文化间的相互学习与借鉴;战争、经济、教育、文化变迁等主客观因素也影响了中西女装的发展方向。本研究以20世纪10年代中西方女性日常穿着的主要服装品类为研究对象,将女装这一大的范畴分为内衣、连属服装、分体服装、裤装等品类,并从中选取肚兜与紧身胸衣、袍服与连衣裙、袄裙与套装、中国传统女裤与西方女裤等进行深入的比较研究。文章梳理了20世纪10年代中西方女装发展的社会背景、中西方文化相互影响下的整体服装文化特征。通过对大量的实物进行测量、分析,归纳总结了20世纪10年代中西方女装各品类的发展过程、服装形制、结构特点、以及服装结构中包含的技术美。每一章节最后分析比较了中西方女装结构相似性与差异性,多角度探讨影响双方女装发展的主客观因素。文中选取《Patterns of Fashion2》中的成衣进行复制,深入剖析了西方结构背后的真实动机,形成关于现代女装发展过渡时期中西方结构本质特征的基本理论体系。研究发现,整个20世纪10年代的中国女装基本为十字型整一平面结构,西方女装为曲线分片立体结构。战争期间,中西方女装相互借鉴,中国女装造型趋于窄身曲线形,西方女装则向直线形发展,但二者结构本质基本未发生变化。通过对中西方服装裁剪方式、关键部位结构的理性考量及开合方式等方面的分析比较中体会中西方女装结构中的智慧。本研究基本达到对20世纪10年代中西女装追本溯源、知己知彼,明晰中西方女装结构根本差异的目的。望对中西女装比较系统提供理论部分的补充,同时也希望为传统服装传承与创新提供借鉴。更多还原

【Abstract】 1910s was the transitional period that traditional women’s suit was transforming to modern women’s suit. The model and structure of women’s suit in this period clearly reflected that Chinese culture and western culture were learning from each other; war, economy, education,cultural change and other subjective and objective factors also influenced the development direction of Chinese and western women’s suit. This study takes the Chinese and western women’s major daily clothing categories as research subject and divides the women’s suit, a big category, into underwear one-piece clothing, two-piece clothing, pantsuit and other clothing,from which the study selects Dudou and corset, robe and one-piece dress, jacket dress and suit,Chinese traditional pant and western pant for thorough study. The paper studies the social background of Chinese and western women’s suit development in 1910 s and the overall clothing culture characteristics under the mutual influence of Chinese and western culture. Through measuring and analyzing a huge amount of real objects, the paper summarizes the development process, clothing shapes, structure characteristics as well as the technical beauty in the clothing structure of each category of Chinese and western women’s suit. At the end of each chapter is the analysis of similarities and differences of Chinese and western women’s suit and discussion of the subjective and objective factors that influenced Chinese and western women’s suit development from various angles. The paper selects the 4 pieces of ready-made garment in《Patterns of Fashion》to be duplicated and analyzes profoundly the real motive behind western structure and forms the theory system about the essential characteristic of western structure in the transitional period of modern women’s suit development.The research showed that Chinese women’s suit structure in 1910 s was generally the cross-shaped completely planar structure and the western women’s suit structure was the curveand sharding three-dimensional structure. During the war, these two kinds of structures were used by each other for reference. So the Chinese women’s suit was tending to be the skinny curve style and the Western women’s suit was developing to the linear style. But there was no essential change in both structures. This article gives rational consideration and discussion on the tailoring patterns and the structure of key parts of Chinese and western suit, and then by comparing and analyzing the open-close ways of Chinese and western suit, this article expresses the shows the wisdom in the western and Chinese women’s suit structure. The comparative research on western and Chinese women’s suit structure during that period by dating back the original and knowing fully all information is at least the supplement to the theoretical part of the comparison system of western and Chinese suit structure, and at the same time it is also expected to provide new thought for the inheritance and innovation of traditional clothing.更多还原