【作者】 王霞；

【导师】 钱建状；

【作者基本信息】 厦门大学 ， 中国古代文学， 2014， 硕士

【摘要】 服饰作为一种文化现象,反映了一定时期内的社会生活和大众心理。《花间集》中的女性服饰描写正是晚唐五代社会文化的体现。通过对服饰描写的分析,可以探查《花间集》以艳为美、感官化和“促碎”的审美倾向以及工笔画的艺术表现手法,并了解花间词人在社会动荡下的生存状态。本文分绪论、正文、结语三个部分。绪论部分简要介绍本课题的研究现状、研究目的及研究方法。正文共四章：第一章分析《花间集》中的女性妆饰描写。首先,梳理傅粉、涂红、描眉、涂黄、贴钿、点靥、注唇七种妆容的由来和演变,探讨妆容描画的位置、形状、颜色,及施用的方式、工具等。其次,介绍《花间集》中的女性发式。从髻、鬟、鬓三方面探讨其来由、形状、梳理方法,归纳其丰富多彩的时代特色。第二章介绍《花间集》描写的女子配饰。考证发饰、手饰、耳饰样式的发展演变。通过分析配饰的色彩搭配、制作工艺和造型创意,展现晚唐五代时期富丽堂皇的审美取向和穷奢极欲的生活状态。第三章介绍《花间集》的衣着描写。考证襦、衫、裙以及帔子的起源及发展脉络,辨析《花间集》中衣着的材质、颜色以及图纹工艺。概括女性衣着材质的多种多样,色彩的绚丽斑斓、工艺的精巧绝伦等特点,总结晚唐五代富丽华美的衣着风尚。第四章论述《花间集》服饰描写的审美倾向和表现手法。从词人所展现的富艳精工的女性服饰世界中,体味花间词人以艳为美、主观化以及“促碎”的审美情趣。透过女性服饰描写体现出来的审美情趣,试图理解花间词人消极悲观、纵情享乐的生存状态。通过《花间集》与宫体诗的比较,凸显花间词人对工笔画表现手法的偏爱,印证其审美倾向。结语对全文观点进行总结。更多还原

【Abstract】 Attire as a cultural phenomenon, reflecting a certain period of social life and social psychology. The description of female attire in "Huajian Ji" reflects the society and culturen of the Five Dynasties and Late Tang Dynasty. Through analysis of the clothing description, we can probe the rich artistic and brilliant Seiko morbid aesthetic orientation from "Huajian Ji", and understand the words of people living in the state of social unrest among the authors.This paper consists of three parts:introduction, body, and conclusion. The introduction part briefly introduces the research current situation, research purpose and research method of this topic. The body is divided into four chapters:The first chapter analyzes "Huajian Ji" female ornaments description. First, Fu powder, painted red, Miaomei, painted yellow, stick tin, point dimple, lip injection seven parts of its origin and evolution of combing, drawing makeup discuss the position, shape, color, and application methods, tools and so on. Second, it introduces "Huajian philatelic" female hair. Explore their reason, shape, sort method from the bun, DW, coming in three areas, summarized its colorful characteristics of the times. The second chapter describes the Huajian people describe a woman accessories. Were analyzed hair ornaments woman among the "Huajian Ji", jewelry, earrings, categorized Dynasty evolution of their style, and from detailed analysis from color, craftsmanship and style and other aspects of creativity, exploration aesthetic orientation Late Tang and Five Society and life style.The second chapter,"Huajian Ji" describes a woman accessories. Dynasty hair ornaments, jewelry, earrings style evolution. By analyzing accessories with color, craftsmanship and styling ideas, to show the living conditions in the Late Tang and Five Dynasties palatial aesthetic orientation and extravagant.The third chapter "Huajian Ji" clothing description. Research jacket, shirt, skirt and cape child’s origin and development context, Discrimination "Huajian Ji" dress material, color and pattern process. Summarizes a variety of women clothing materials, colors gorgeous gorgeous, exquisite craft exquisite characteristics, summarized Furama America Late Tang Dynasty clothing fashion.The fourth chapter, Dress of the "Huajian Ji" is discussed in aesthetic orientation and the technique of expression. From ci shows rich colourful seiko women clothing in the world, appreciate ci for brilliant beauty among the flowers, subjective and is broken ","the aesthetic temperament and interest. Through women dress description of aesthetic temperament and interest, try to understand huajian ci negative, indulge in pleasure state of survival. With the flowers set from the comparison of poetry, highlight huajian ci preference for the claborate-style painting expression, fulfil their aesthetic tendency.Summary gives the conclusion of this paper.更多还原