从感性到理性：胡文化在唐宋内地传播的不同境遇

【作者】 张琳琳；

【导师】 介永强；

【作者基本信息】 陕西师范大学 ， 专门史， 2010， 硕士

【副题名】以胡服为视阈

【摘要】 唐宋之际,中国历史出现了一系列令人瞩目的转折。其中,以胡服为代表的胡文化在内地的传播便遭遇了不同境遇：从感性的传播走向了理性的接受,从而出现了胡服在唐代盛行和胡服在宋代衰弱的现象。这是一个不容忽视的历史现象,这种服饰文化的演变,究其原因,除了生产力起决定性作用外,民族文化交流、统治阶级意志、社会思想、生活观念等诸多方面都对胡服在内地的传播起着影响。在这场波澜壮阔的服饰文化范型嬗变的背后,蕴含着丰富的文化内涵。宋代新的服饰文化范式不同于唐代过于开放的服饰文化范式,它经过不断的沉淀与自我批判,渐渐趋向稳定、内向和理性。全文共分五个部分：第一章简要介绍唐宋时期胡汉文化交融的基本情况,并考察唐宋以前及唐宋时期在内地流传过的胡服的基本形制。第二章根据相关历史记载研究唐宋时期胡服在内地传播的不同境遇。本章在论述唐代胡服的流传情况时,分唐前期和唐后期两个阶段,试图从纵向上勾划出胡服在唐朝流行风尚的历史轨迹,并从整体上把握宋朝胡服的流传趋向。第三章通过几类盛行于唐宋时期的胡服,来分析其背后所蕴含的时代特征及在内地传播出现不同境遇的历史原因,并从横向和纵向等多维视角来探讨影响胡服传播的特殊社会文化氛围。第四章结合历史文本,以唐宋胡服在内地传播的不同境遇来分析胡文化影响下的唐宋服饰文化内涵的演变过程及其内容。结语部分是对全篇论文的整合分析,并对胡服在内地传播境遇的不同做出整体性论述。更多还原

【Abstract】 When in the Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty, Chinese history presented a series of amazing transitions. And the dissemination of Hu’s style culture which was represented by its clothes countered the different circumstances in inland:from perceptual dissemination to rational acceptance——thus presented the false appearance that the Hu’s style clothes are prosperous in Tang Dynasty but fell into a decline in Song Dynasty. This historical phenomenon could not be neglected. The reasons for the evolution of this kind of clothes culture, besides the essential productivity factor, the factors such as national cultural exchanges, the will of the dominant class, social thought and life idea played the most important roles in the dissemination of Hu’s style clothes. The mammoth evolution of clothing cultural pattern was containing rich cultural connotation. The new clothing cultural style in Song Dynasty is different from the one of Tang Dynasty which was too open. This process tended to stable, introverted and reasonable after long-term unceasing precipitation and the self-criticism.The full thesis is divided into five parts:The first chapter briefly introduces the basic situation of the melts among Han’s style culture and Hu’s style culture when in Tang and Song Dynasty. We will inspect the basic construction of Hu’s style clothes in inland from the historical angle.In the second chapter, we will study the situation that Hu’s style clothes countered the different circumstances in inland when its spreading in inland. The study was based on various of related historical record.In this chapter, I divides the Tang Dynasty into two stages——the earlier period and the later period. We will attempt to elaborate the development trend of the Hu’s style clothes in Tang Dynasty. And we will find out the fashion trend of Hu’s style clothes in Song Dynasty.The third chapter will analyzes why the dissemination of Hu’s style clothes countered the different circumstances in the Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty and its historical characteristics behind it. And we will list the factors that produced effects on the dissemination of Hu’s style clothes through crosswise and longitudinal angles.According to the historical text, the fourth chapter focuses on the evolution of cultural connotation in clothes influenced by the Hu’s style culture.The conclusion is a general analysis for the entire thesis, and we will safely arrive at the conclusion that the different dissemination circumstances in inland.更多还原