【作者】 张丽艳；

【导师】 王府梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 目前,PTT纤维在服用面料上用量最大的两大类产品是:第一,PTT“形状记忆”织物(PTT长丝的轻薄高密机织物);第二,PTT/PET双组份长丝的弹性机织面料。本文在课题组前期研究的基础上,针对应用中提出的前沿问题:PTT与PET织物在低温下的手感差异如何、PTT混纺交织物是否具有“形状记忆”织物的易护理性能、PTT/PET双组分纤维/棉织物的弹性、抗皱性如何等等,进行了以下4个方面的研究:(1)用DMA Q800型动态力学分析仪对PTT、PET纤维、PTT“形状记忆”织物及相同结构的PET“仿记忆”织物分别进行了动态力学温度谱测试,发现PTT纤维的低温转变峰温度在-65～-55℃之间,PET纤维的低温转变峰温度在-50～-40℃之间,PTT“形状记忆”织物的经、纬向低温转变峰的温度分别在-30～-20℃和-35～-25℃之间;PET“仿记忆”织物的经、纬向低温转变峰的温度分别在-35～-25℃和-30～-10℃之间。通过求取弹性模量随温度变化的微分曲线(精确讲是增量曲线)发现,在-50～50℃范围内,随着温度逐渐降低,PTT纤维及其“形状记忆”织物、PET纤维及其“仿记忆”织物的弹性模量的增量都越来越大,并且PET纤维的弹性模量增量比PTT纤维增加的快得多,PET“仿记忆”织物的弹性模量的增量比PTT“形状记忆”织物增加的快得多。在0℃以后,PET纤维及织物的弹性模量的增量急剧增加,PTT纤维及织物的弹性模量的增量增加的则相对缓慢。这说明PET纤维及织物在低温条件下的手感比PTT纤维及织物更容易变硬变差,也就是说在低温条件下,PTT“形状记忆”织物的手感比相同结构的PET“仿记忆”织物要好。(2)采用课题组针对PTT“形状记忆”织物开发的力刺激复平性的试验方法,对棉/PTT交织物及PTT/PET双组份短纤与棉混纺织物进行了测试,发现,棉/双组份短纤织物在经过质量为2kg的重物静压24小时后,自身的折痕回复率(自然状态下恢复5min)在30%左右;在经过压力5N/cm~2、温度35±2℃的“手摸式”力刺激复平后,其折痕回复率提高了一倍,达到60%左右。将其与纯PTT织物、PTT/PET交织物、纯PET等织物进行对比分析,发现棉/双组份短纤织物的力刺激复平性能明显逊于PTT“形状记忆”织物,但与棉/XLA包芯织物相当。另外,经过水洗处理后,棉/双组份短纤织物的力刺激复平性能也有一定程度的改善。(3)利用YG065型电子拉伸强力仪及YG541B型织物折皱弹性测试仪对棉/双组份织物的拉伸性能、弹性回复性能、折皱回复性能分别进行了探讨,发现,当PTT/PET短纤含量为19.5%,纬纱细度为19.4tex时,棉/双组份短纤织物与棉/双组份长丝包芯织物的强伸性能接近,且拉伸初始模量较低,织物手感柔软。在定伸长和定负荷反复拉伸情况下,棉/双组份短纤织物弹性回复性能优良,弹性回复率接近于棉氨包芯织物和棉/XLA包芯织物。棉/双组份短纤织物的折皱回复性能良好,与棉/XLA包芯织物相近,优于棉氨包芯织物。(4)用KES-FB织物风格仪测试了棉/双组份短纤织物低负荷条件下的力学性能,并与纯棉和棉/PTT等织物进行分析比较,发现,各织物的拉伸曲线线性度相差不大,表明各织物在低负荷下的变形性能和应力变化比较接近;棉/双组份短纤织物的弯曲刚度较纯棉织物略高;棉/双组份短纤织物剪切刚度低于纯棉和涤棉织物,与棉/PTT织物接近,剪切滞后量2HG、2HG5均小于棉织物和棉/PTT织物;棉/双组份短纤织物的压缩比功与棉/PTT织物相当,比棉织物小;棉/双组份短纤织物与棉织物的摩擦系数平均差不匀率MMD和表面粗糙度SMD相差不大,平均摩擦系数MIU略小于棉织物。更多还原

【Abstract】 At present, there are two main applications to woven fabric of PTT fiber. One is the PTT "shape memory" fabric （the thin & tight woven fabric made of PTT filament）. The other is the elastic woven fabric made of PTT/PET bicomponent filament. On the basis of the existed studies, in this paper, we did the research mainly in the four aspects: the handle difference between PTT and PET fabric at low temperature, whether the PTT blended fabrics have the easy care property which the "shape memory" fabrics have, the elastic and wrinkle-resistant property of PTT/PET staple fabric, and the mechanical properties at the low stress.The main content and conclusions were achieved as following:（1） The dynamic mechanical temperature spectra of PTT, PET filament, PTT "shape memory" fabric and PET fabric （having the same structure with PTT "shape memory" fabric） were respectively tested by the dynamic mechanical analyzer. The results shows that the low-temperature transition peak temperature of PTT filament is at about -65～55℃; PET filament is -50～-40℃; the warp and weft direction of PTT "shape memory" fabric are at about -30～-20℃and -35～-25℃; the warp and weft direction of PET fabric are -35～-25℃and -30～-10℃.By executing the differential curve of elastic modulus with temperature changes （accurately the incremental curve）, we found that, in the range of -50～50℃, the elastic modulus increments of PTT filament, "shape memory" fabric, PET filament and fabric are becoming increasingly large with the temperature gradually decreased. And the elastic modulus increment of PET filament increases faster than PTT filament; the elastic modulus increment of PET fabric increases faster than PTT "shape memory" fabric. After 0℃, the elastic modulus increment of PET filament and fabric increases dramatically, whereas the PTT filament and "shape memory" fabric increases gently. This shows that the handle of PET filament and fabric is easier to harden than PTT filament and "shape memory" fabric at low temperature. This means that, at low temperature, the handle of PTT "shape memory" fabric is better than PET fabric.（2） Using the objective evaluation methods for force stimulating recovery which was built up in the earlier research process of PTT "shape memory" fabric, the cotton/（PTT /PET bicomponent ） fabric was tested. After the press of 2Kg static objects for 24 hours and recovering its natural state for 5min, the crease recovery rate is less than 30%; after the iron force of 100g (5N/cm^-2) combined with 35±2℃, the crease recovery rate doubled, reaching about 60%. By Comparing with the PTT、PTT/PET and PET fabrics, the force stimulating recovery of cotton/bicomponent fabric is worse than PTT "shape memory" fabric but equivalent with the cotton/XLA core fabric. After washing treatment, the force stimulating recovery of cotton/bicomponent fabric has a certain degree improvement.（3） The tensile properties, the elastic recovery and the crease recovery of cotton/bicomponent fabric were respectively tested by Fabric Strength Tester YG065H and Fabric Scrimp and Elasticity Tester YG541B. When the content of PTT/PET bicomponent staple is 19.5% and the weft fineness is 19.4tex, the tensile property of cotton/bicomponent fabric is approach to the cotton/bicomponent core fabric; the tensile initial modulus is lower and the handle is softer. When stretched repeatedly under constant elongation and load, the elastic recovery of cotton/bicomponent fabric is good, and the elastic recovery property is close to cotton/spandex core fabric and cotton/XLA core fabric. The crease recovery of cotton/bicomponent fabric is close to cotton/XLA core fabric and better than cotton/spandex core fabric.（4） The low load mechanical properties of cotton/bicomponent fabrics were tested by the KES-FB and compared with cotton and cotton/PTT fabrics. The tensile curve linearity of these fabrics is no less, indicating that the deformation property of these fabrics is close in on. The bending stiffness of cotton/bicomponent fabric is lower than the cotton fabric and close to cotton/PTT fabric. The shear hystersis 2HG、2HG5 is lower than cotton and cotton/PTT fabric. The compression work of cotton/bicomponent fabric is near to the cotton/PTT fabric and lower than cotton fabric. The MMD and SMD of cotton/bicomponent fabric is close to the cotton fabric, while MIU is lower than the cotton fabric.更多还原