【作者】 侯秋平；

【导师】 顾肇文； 王其；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2006， 硕士

【摘要】 天然彩色棉是采用杂交、基因等现代生物工程技术培育出的一种在吐絮时就具有天然色彩的棉花。天然彩色棉在加工中无须染色,从而减少了污水的排放,避免了禁用染料、有毒助剂对人体的危害及对环境的破坏,降低了能源消耗,从而大大降低了成本,有力地提高了它的竞争力。但天然彩棉纤维自身存在着不可克服的缺陷,如纤维品质差;色素遗传性不稳定;色系比较单调。要扩大天然彩棉的市场占有率,只有赋予天然彩棉一些特殊功能,提高它的附加价值。 论文介绍了捷克Brno针织研究所编织的一种新型复合层针织物。该针织物由两层组成,一层是疏水渗出层,另一层是吸收层。通过连结线从吸收层穿过织物的厚度到达渗出层的表面,因此,该织物具有很高的汗液传递率。据此,将天然彩棉的生态、绿色、环保等特性与异型截面涤纶快速吸湿导湿性相结合,开发出集功能性、舒适性、天然环保性为一体的灯芯点集层结构类导湿快干天然彩棉织物,它的市场应用前景将十分开阔。为此,本课题进行了大量实验研究,主要实验内容如下: 1、采用哈氏纤维切片仪制作纱线横截面切片,并利用普通显微镜辅助CCP投影仪观察纱线的微观结构; 2、采用日本福原V—LEC4BS电脑提花双面纬编机编织各类天然彩棉灯芯点结构集层织物和常规空气层结构织物; 3、在传统煮练工艺基础上,对各类针织物的煮练工艺进行探讨与优选; 4、采用液滴法测量织物的导湿性能和织物内层干燥性能:在模拟人体出汗状态下,利用蒸发法测量织物的整体快干性能。更多还原

【Abstract】 Natural colored cotton is born with natural color, its character is attained by hybridizing and gene conversion modern bioengineering technology. Compared with process of other cotton, natural colored cotton need not dye process, water source pollution and forbidden dye and harmful assistant can be avoided. It reduces energy source consumption, so it makes its cost low and improves its competition. Natural colored cotton is environmental protection species and ecological adaptation, but there are irresistible disadvantages: poor fiber property, unstable pigment descendiblity, monotonic color luster scope. In order to extend its market occupation, some special functions must be given to natural color cotton.This paper introduces a new kind double-layer knitted fabric which is developed by Czechic Brrno knitted research institute. Thisfabric is composed by moisture absorption layer and moisture-free layer constitute. The two layers are connected by special yarn , this fabric has high speed of water transmission. So double-layer knitted fabric consists of natural colored cotton and polyester with special cross-section, the fabric has comfortable and natural function. Its will have a good market perspective. On this basis, many experiments are carried out, as follow:1 > In order to observe micro-cross-section of fibre, make cross-section slices with fibre slicer and observe them with microscope.2> Double-layer knitted fabrics of different outer yarn fineness > different lamp-wick density > different lamp-wick material and ribbed structure fabrics are knitted.3> According to traditional souring process and the new mixed knitted fabric from polyester and cotton yarn are compared.4> Fabrics are treated by hydrophilicity, discuss dimensional process by statistics method.5 > Moisture absorption and moisture-free functions of fabric are tested by drop method. Under imitating human beings sweat, whole dry ability of fabrics are tested by water evaporation method.6^ Combining liquid transportability ratio Si/S2, inter dry time t and whole dry ability V build a synthetic index Z which can evaluateliquid transportability and fast dry ability of fabrics.The following results can be derived from experimental date:KBest souring process is Na2CO3,3%;soap ,2g/l;JFC,3g/l;water ratio, l/20;temperature,90°C;time, 120min.2^ Best dimensional process is figurable time 23.69s,figurable temperature 188.27 "C.3> When lamp-wick density is 12.5%, liquid transportability and fast dry ability of fabrics are best in my research scope.4> Moisture absorption and moisture-free functions of fabrics which use T/C yarn as lamp-wick material are better than those which use pure polyester pure cotton as lamp-wick materials.5> Synthetic index Z can objectively and accurately evaluates liquid transportability and fast dry ability of fabrics.更多还原