【作者】 蔡成英；

【导师】 沈雷；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2005， 硕士

【摘要】 编结方法是针织服装设计领域中的一门古老的科目。因为机械化生产的发展,手工编结慢慢被人遗忘。从近几年的服装发展可见,手工编结正成为一种时尚,被人们所向往。编结方法也是一门古老的艺术,它在人们生活经验中被积累,被创新。许多国际服装设计大师们,正在寻找和尝试着这种新的设计手段,他们不断地尝试在服装上使用编结方法。然而在服装设计的学术上,对此的研究极少,几乎没有。对编结方法的研究,基本上有三个来源:“纤维艺术”、“中国结”和“日常用结”。编结的方法很多,材料很多,结的形态也很丰富。从设计的角度来说,作者选择从编结的线形态入手,来分析编结的线在服装上的运用和设计,从而归纳总结出一些设计的理论,为我国服装设计行业提供一个有用的参考。“线”是本文章的主要线路,从分析“线”的基本概念,到分析“编结方法中的线”,再分析“编结服装中的线”,最后得出“利用编结方法来设计的服装,不仅可以达到服装所需要的基本特性,而且能使用线的特性设计出更符合设计师所需要的效果。”通过实验研究,作者发现对“编结方法与服装设计”的研究,是一个不小的科目,作者跟据设计的需要,和时间的局限性,选择从“线”入手着重分析了服装设计造型。同样在今后的研究中,从编结的点、面、体或编结的功能性等方面出发来研究服装的设计手段,都是可以开展的一个很好的课题。更多还原

【Abstract】 Knotting technique is an old subject in knitted wear design field. Because ofthe development of mechanization, knotting by hand was ignored. However, from thefashion design of these years, we found hand knotting become a new fashion, and becomepopular.Also, knotting technique is an old art. It was fund and renewed by people withintheir life and experience. It was used by lots of international fashion designers,to be a part of their new garments. But there are no any information talkedacademically about how to use this technique on fashion design.About three sources on the knotting technique could be found: Fiber art, Chineseknots and Daily knots. There have so many means, materials and lots of shapes of knots,and with the design direction, the author chose to talk about the figure of the“line” on the knot to get the idea that how to use the knot on garments, to getthe new method of design. And may it could be a reference of fashion designers inour country. “Line” is the main line of this paper. First, it analyzed the basis of “line”.Second, it talked about the line in knots, then, the line in knotted garments. Atlast, it got the idea to use the knotting technique to design garments, not only itwas suitable for the garments, but also it can give more ideas to designers.From the experiment and research, the author found it was big subject to researchon the “knotting technique and fashion design”. So according to the time, and thedirection of research, it chose to analyze the subject on “line” of knots. Of course,from the point of ‘point’, ‘surface’, ‘substance’ or ‘ functionality’ of theknots to talk about, also is a good study.更多还原