【作者】 张金端；

【导师】 薛美君； 杨以雄；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2005， 硕士

【摘要】 近代服装朝高品质、高技术含量方向的发展,使我国服装质量和档次的提高成为服装业所面临的当务之急。而影响服装质量的因素除了面料、加工工艺外,其使用的粘合衬及其粘合效果也是不可忽视的一个重要因素。热熔粘合衬是重要的服装辅料之一,热熔粘合衬家族中的新成员——双点粘合衬越来越普遍地应用在高档西服和职业服的生产中。国内外的专家学者对双点粘合衬的生产、与面料的粘合工艺及服用性能等方面给予深切的关注并都有一定的研究。 目前,随着高档西服、职业服向着“柔、轻、薄、挺、舒”方向发展,轻薄毛精纺面料已经成为制作高档西服和职业服的首选面料。在制作高档西服和职业服时,粘合衬的选择和合理使用是十分关键的技术。这不仅可以改善轻薄毛精纺面料原有的性能,还可以提高服装的整体质量。而现有的研究中,对轻薄毛精纺面料与粘合衬配伍性的研究还较少。为此,根据与海澜集团凯诺科技股份有限公司的合作项目要求,在该企业进行历时近三个月的调研和测试工作。对该公司提供的六种常用轻薄毛精纺面料和四种针织底布双点粘合衬,采用正交设计粘合压烫方案,在九种粘合压烫工艺下进行粘合压烫,对得到的180种组合试样进行剥离强度、干洗、水洗及FAST力学性能测试。另外,还对三种机织底布粘合衬,与六种轻薄毛精纺面料进行粘合压烫,对得到的18种组合试样进行同样的测试。 本论文得出的研究成果如下: 1 利用方差分析方法对测试结果进行分析,得到实验面料与针织底布粘合衬的最优粘合压烫工艺和最佳配伍; 2 针织底布粘合衬和机织底布粘合衬在与轻薄毛精纺面料的配伍上没有明显差异,由底布结构的实际情况决定它们的使用特点; 3 分析剥离类型验证最佳粘合状态,通过主成分分析找到影响剥离强度的主要因素有四个:粘合衬的胶粒大小、粘合衬克重、胶粒密度和熔融指数,并对主要影响因素进行了分析。 本论文通过大量的实验和分析,对轻薄毛精纺面料和双点粘合衬组合体的FAST更多还原

【Abstract】 Presently, garment production is focusing on high quality and technology, the advance of garment quality and value has been a trend in garment industry. Fusible interlining selected and fusible efficiency are important factors and not to be sneezed at, which can influence the garment quality besides fabric and technology. Fusible interlining is one of the important accessories of garment, and the new member of fusible interlining family---double-point fusible interlining has been introduced widely into the production of high-level Western-style clothes and career clothes. Specialists home and abroad have been heedful of the study on the manufacture of fusible interlining and the performance of fusing fabric with fusible interlining, and done lots of research work.At present, as high-level Western-style clothes and career clothes trend towards soft"、 "light" 、 "thin"、 "straight"、 "comfortable", light-worsted wool fabric has become the preferred material for the production of Western-style clothes and career clothes. The collect selection and use of fusible interlining are pivotal technics in course of production of high-level Western-style clothes and career clothes, and can improve the intrinsic performance of light-worsted wool fabric and increase garment’s entire quality. Actually there is less research on compatibility of light-worsted wool fabric with fusible interlining till now. Accordingly, based on the demands iof cooperative project with Kainuo joint-stock company of Hailan group, we have investigated and tested in the corporation for three months. In this dissertation orthogonal experiments have been used to design fusible technics by conglutinating six common light-worsted wool fabrics with four double-point fusible interlinings which cadres are knitted. All together 9 experiments have been carried out. The 180 samples gained have been done tests, such as peel-back、 dry cleaning、 washing-up and FAST tests. In addition, six common light-worsted woolfabricswith three double-point fusible interlinings which cadres are woven have been conglutinated, the 18 samples gained have been done the same tests. The dissertation has gained the following research results:1 The optimum technics and best assemblies of experimental fabrics with fusible interlinings which cadres are knitted have been gained via analyzing test data by variance analysis;2 There are no obvious differences in the assemblies of light-worsted wool fabric with interlining which cadres are knitted or woven, the use characteristics of the two kinds of interlinings are decided by the actual structures of cadres;3 The best cohesive status via analyzing peeling types has been validated, four primary factors which influence the peeling strength have been found, they are glue diameter、weight、 glue density and liquation index of interlining, and by means of principal component analysis, these four factors have been analyzed respectively.The dissertation is investigated FAST mechanical performance exploratively of light-worsted wool fabrics with fusible interlinins by large numbers of tests and analyse. The study results about fusible technics and compatibility of fusing fabrics with fusible interlinings offered the reference for the corporation. Part of the results have been adopted by Hailan group in actual production.更多还原