【作者】 张道英；

【导师】 张文斌；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2005， 硕士

【摘要】 通过对服装企业人才需求的调查发现,目前服装行业紧缺内衣款式设计与内衣版型设计人才。而文胸作为内衣的典型代表,国内在文胸设计与版型研究这一领域显得较为薄弱,大部分服装院校没有设置这方面的课程。 针对实际情况,本课题提出了上海地区青年女性文胸基础样版的理论研究和实践探索。 本文以文胸版型研究为目标,从人体工学角度出发,对女性胸部形态进行研究,总结分析了女性胸部形态特征;分析文胸结构构成,确定与文胸版型设计有关的人体测量项目21个,通过统计分析得到表征上海地区青年女性胸部形态的中间体型数据以及文胸版型设计所需的各细部尺寸的中间体型数据。 通过对女性胸部形态的分析以及利用统计分析的结果,运用数学方法,结合文胸版型设计的特点,通过模拟及计算验证,建立了一个符合上海地区青年女性胸部形态的文胸罩杯立体模型,并将立体罩杯模型进行平面展开得到罩杯的省道量,从而得到了文胸罩杯的基础样版,为文胸罩杯结构设计提供了理论依据,也为服装CAD应用到文胸样版设计与推档上做了一些基础性的研究工作。这是本论文的研究重点。文胸罩杯省道角度是文胸版型的核心部分,它直接影响文胸的合体性及舒适性,在此基础上再来考虑文胸的美学要求,即文胸的塑型功能。更多还原

【Abstract】 On the basis of the investigation of the requirement of person with ability in garment company, I find that there is short of the outstanding style designer and the pattern maker about underwear in garment industry. Brassiere is a representative of undergarment, but in our country it seems very weak in this domain, and on the other hand, most garment academy have no courses about underwear, especially bra.In allusion to the actual circumstances, this thesis brings forward some theory and practice research on young women’s basic bra pattern of Shanghai area.Aiming at the structure of brassiere and basing upon body study, this thesis researches for women’s breast shape, summarizes and analyses the characteristics of women’s breast shape, also it analyses the factors of the structure of brassiere. The article confirms the items of body measurement concerning the design of bra pattern, and the number of it is 21. According to the statistic analysis, this paper find the averaged body shape datum about young lady’s breast shapeof Shanghai and the need of designing of bra.On the basis of the research of women’s breast shape and the statistic analysis of the measurement datum, using mathematics, integrating the characteristics of bra structure pattern, by the means of simulating and validating, this study sets up a model of a three-dimensional bra cup according with young lady’s breast shape of Shanghai area, and it changes the three-dimensional bra cup model into a two-dimensional one, also it gained the basic structure pattern of brassiere. It provides a theory warranty for bra cup structure pa’ttern, also it offers some basic study work for the design and grading of bra structure pattern applying on CAD. This is the emphases of this paper. It is the hard core of this study that the angle of the cup of bra. The angle has an effect on the fitness and the comfort of the brassiere. Then this paper studies the request of aesthetics, that is the shape function of bra.Commonly, outwear can use both pattern gained with the three-dimensional cut means and the pattern with the two-dimensional method. Brassiere is not an exception, via the academic research and the actual application, this paper finds a kind of basic pattern of bra. In this way, it predigests the manipulation and enhances the work efficiency of the production of bra.Because of the strict fitness requirements of brassiere, thediscomfort of bra pattern can do harm to the health of the body and the mentality of women. Therefore, we need a basic pattern of bra according with the consumer’s body requirements, then on the basis of the basic pattern , the pattern maker can make out the correct pattern according the requirements of the body and the mentality of consumers.At present, there are no basic structure patterns of brassiere like outwear basic structure pattern, because of the accuracy request of bra. According to the theory of clothing structure, this paper analyses the items of bra structure pattern on the basis of the analysis of the body measurement datum. Combining three-dimensional with two-dimensional clothing cutting out method, the thesis discusses the basic structure pattern of brassiere in order to find a new way of research the basic pattern of bra. Also, due to the theory of this study I have made a few sample and then let some models try them on. During the process of the actual practice, this paper verifies the applicability of the basic bra pattern.The establishment and study of this task are an exploration about the existent bra pattern. Especially, since there is no appropriative body model, this study finds out a reasonable and convenient for style change basic bra pattern. It is propitious to teach and also it offers an applied bra pattern- make technology for thepattern maker of garment company. Also it has an important significance on the garment education and the garment company.更多还原