【作者】 王昆；

【导师】 蒋荣昌；

【作者基本信息】 四川大学 ， 新闻学， 2004， 硕士

【摘要】 从1993年的创刊到现在，经过十余年的蓬勃发展，《时尚》成功地扩展成为以“时尚”为中心的一个杂志系列，旗下拥有《时尚·COSMO》、《时尚·ESQUIRE》、《时尚家居》、《时尚健康》(男士／女士)、《时尚旅游》、《中国时装》、《娇点》、《好管家》、《时尚时间》等时尚系列刊物。据有关统计资料表明：无论在期刊发行数量，读者阅读率，还是广告投放额等方面，《时尚》均名列前茅。细看《时尚》系列刊物，它们的广告客户几乎涵盖了最富有和最舍得广告投放的行业(时装，珠宝，高级化妆品……)。它们的读者是国内最有消费能力或者消费最活跃的群体。无论是广告客户或读者，他们都是现代商业和消费文化潮流的引领者和最忠实的实践者。《时尚》就是一本不折不扣的宣扬商业和消费的成功的消费杂志。它“开创了中国名牌时尚媒体的先河，也是引领中国时尚潮流的先锋之一，它在向中国消费者介绍国际流行时尚、扶持中国本地时尚业的发展过程中扮演着不可或缺的角色。” 然而无论是《时尚》杂志的兴起，还是时尚这个话题的提起，在中国也还是近二十年的事情。这二十年是中国社会经济高速发展的二十年。《时尚》杂志以及时尚的蓬勃发展必然具有深远的社会文化意义。因而，本文写作的目的就是：试图以客观的态度通过分析《时尚》杂志所包含的时尚元素，解读读者(消费者)阅读杂志时所经历的体验，说明其如何在定位、理念等方面迎合了消费主义社会以及特定消费群体的需要，其所倡导的生活方式如何对其他的消费群体产生影响，从而(与时尚一道)成为消费社会扩大再生产的动力的。以此揭示《时尚》杂志及时尚出现和兴起的真正价值所在。同时，作者还希望通过这种客观研究，为当前中国期刊业生存以及媒体产业化运作打开一个新的视角。 全文分为三大部分。 第一部分主要是关于《时尚》杂志的相关背景资料的介绍。简单介绍了以“时尚”为中心的一个《时尚》杂志系列的蓬勃发展状况。 第二部分主要是通过《时尚》杂志分析消费社会的时尚元素。这一部分一开始从历史的角度分析了时尚是随着资本主义物质财富的积累，新兴的资产阶级通过物质消费要求变革、创新、以及获得更多权利而兴起的。因而时尚一开始就是民主自由的愿望的表达。同时期萌芽的消费主义文化从而超越了消费仅是满足需要的功能，它还成为增强力量、表明社会地位的生活的主要内容之一。到了19世纪，成衣以及成衣商店标志着时尚民主化的到来。时尚与消费关系密切，通过时尚，新兴阶层以及大众“买到了”他们渴望的社会平等和美好生活。时尚是艺术形式、是一种社会地位的标志、是一种态度的展示。它核心是对自由的渴望，是自信的表达。 接下来通过对《时尚》杂志阅读过程中的审美体验的解读，揭示了消费社会的时尚元素之一:审美的日常化呈现。 另外作者还分析了《时尚》杂志所鼓吹的身体再造工程是消费社会身体获得交换价值的一个体现。时尚引导诱惑人们不断追逐年轻、漂亮、苗条的躯体。这是消费社会存在的另一个时尚元素。 在这部分最后一个章节本文进一步揭示了《时尚》杂志以及时尚的本质是消费社会扩大再生产的动力。 第三部分从《时尚》杂志分析了当今消费社会的群体。 这一部分首先揭示了《时尚》杂志是在向人们鼓吹一个新兴的社会阶层— “白领阶层”—的一整套生活方式。这个阶层优雅、时尚、富足的生活正是消费社会所允诺给大众的。(也可以认为“白领阶层”的生活方式是消费主义文化的具体体现。)同时还通过《时尚》杂志进一步分析消费社会中白领阶层的生活方式及其对其他消费群体的影响。从而更深刻地理解时尚是消费社会的再生产动力以及消费主义文化的表达方式。 关键词:时尚《时尚》杂志消费消费社会审美社会阶层 白领阶层生活方式2更多还原

【Abstract】 Since 1993, after ten years prosperous development, 《Fashion. COSMO》 has expanded into a series of magazines on the basis of "fashion" , including 《 Fashion. COSMOPOLITAN 》 , 《 China Model Clothes. BAZAAR 》 , 《 Fashion. ESQUIRE 》 , 《 Jiaodian. CosmoGIRL! 》, 《 Cosmo Health 》 (gentleman/lady) and so on. Statistics shows that 《COSMO》 is now the leading magazine at the magazine distribution quantity, reading ratio and the advertising amount. And its advertising customers cover almost all the profitable and generous industries(such as model clothes, jewelry and expensive-cosmetics). Its readers are the most powerful and active consumers. Therefore, both its customers and readers are the leaders as well as the most loyal participators of modern business and consumerism culture. From this point of view, 《COSMO》 is a real successful consumption magazine advocating business and consumption, which is playing a crucial important role in the process of introducing international fashion trend and help the growth of local fashion industry!However, in China the appearance and prosperity of 《Fashion. COSMO》 and fashion just take place in recent twenty years, the period China has seen the high speed development. Thus, the prosperity of them must contain some profound social and cultural meaning. Therefore, my purpose to write this thesis is as follows:Try to disclose how the magazine’ s orientation and contents meet the needs of the consumerism society and certain consumption group and how its advocating life style affects other groups by objectively analyzing the fashion elements in the 《Fashion. COSMO》 and the experiences readers have when reading the magazine, which together with the fashion itself become the incentives of the production expansion of the consumerism society. Moreover, the author also hope to provide some new perspective for the current local magazine industry and for the operation of our media industry through this study.The thesis can be divided into three major parts.The first part deals with some background data of 《Fashion. COSMO》, making a brief introduction of its prosperous development.The second part discloses the fashion elements of consumerism society mainly through the analyzing of the 《Fashion. COSMO》. This part starts with fact that historically the existence of fashion come together with the prosperity of capitalism .during which capitalists accumulated rich fortune and then asked for more reform and more rights. With such respect, since born , fashion is an expression of democracy and freedom . By 19th century, the new social class and the mass could buy their desired equality and happy life by means of fashion. Therefore, fashion is not only a kind of art, but a symbol of social status, but an exhibition of some attitude.In this part, through the analyzing of aesthetic experience during the reading process explores one of the fashion elements of consumerism society: that is aesthetic experience exists everywhere now.Next, the author also declares that the inculcation of the body rebuilding is the embodiment of body’ s exchanging value in consumerism society. In other words , Fashion induces people continuously chasing youngs beautiful and slender body. This is another fashion element.The last chapter of this part takes the research further, explainingthe essence of fashion magazines and fashion : the incentives of production expansion in consumerism society.The last part analyzes the different consumer groups of current society from the 《Fashion. COSMO》 point of view.At the beginning, it explains that actually 《Fashion. COSMO》 is a kind of magazine which is heavily advocating a new class’ s life style , i. e. the white collar’ s life style. Its rictu elegant and fashion life style is what exactly the consumerism society has promised to us. What’ s more, making use of the magazine and certain theories, it also makes more detailed analysis of such life style and its impact on other consumer groups. Trough this study, the author hope to make deeper understanding of f更多还原