【作者】 蒋熙；

【导师】 许星；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2004， 硕士

【副题名】关于性、阶级、时代等因素与服装样式变化的关系

【摘要】 本文讨论的问题是社会价值观对服装样式的影响。在分析大量历史上和现存的服装样式的基础上利用多学科——尤其是性行为学、心理学、社会学和经济学的论点来进行剖析，以便为从表面上看有着复杂形式服装样式变化寻找一种理性分析的方法。 本文主要探讨的是性、阶级、时代等因素是如何与服装样式互动的。首先讨论了性态和服饰样式变化的关系。通过分析可以看到，在人类社会还未完全成熟时，即人类还受到生物性支配大于受到社会性支配的时期，性这种因素促使了服装的产生；在人类社会成熟以后，则产生了这样一种顺序：价值观的形成影响性态和与性相关的审美观的形成，然后影响到人们对服饰样式的选择。本文在第二个部分中主要讨论了不同价值观和社会不同群体、以及服饰潮流的形成之间的关系。主要阐明的是在社会中经济地位的不同会造成人的价值观的不同：人会依照共同的经济利益、共同的价值观来形成共同的社会群体，而作为群体之间相互区分和相互识别最重要标志之一的服饰会因此受到影响，形成不同的服饰风潮。综合上面两方面的分析可以归纳出，服装样式的变化反映出人在价值观演变的过程中，生物性和社会性的相互平衡，这种平衡的结果造就了如今繁多的服装样式。更多还原

【Abstract】 This article discusses influence of the social values on the clothing styles. Based on analysis of historical and contemporary clothing designs, this article uses scientific methodologies - specifically sex-ethology, psychology, sociology and economics as a rational analytical method to explore the deep meaning of the complex and forever changing fashion and styles.This article emphasizes on the interconnection of sexuality, class and clothing styles. First, it discusses the relationship between sexuality and apparels. From the analysis we can see two different stages: Before the human society was fully matured, human beings were controlled mostly by animal instinct than social values. The pursuing of sex appeals created clothes. After society fully matured, social value started influence sexuality and sex related esthetical notion. Eventually, it affected the people’s taste of certain clothing styles and fashion. The second part of the article discusses the relationship between social value, social classes and fashion. It explains that different economic backgrounds created different social value. People formed social classes according to their common economic interests and social value. Clothes became one of the important symbols that indicted the status of different the social classes and groups, therefore they affected by the social value system which created different fashion trends. The article concludes that the changing of the clothing styles is the reflection of the equilibrium of humanity and sociality during the evolution of the social value. This equilibrium creates the diverse and complex fashion and trends of today.更多还原