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棉织物槐米不同染色工艺的颜色特征值比较研究

The comparative research on the color characteristic values of cotton fabric using flos sophorae with different dyeing processes

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【作者】 徐菲赵志军李东高彩云刘剑虹

【Author】 XU Fei;ZHAO Zhijun;LI Dong;GAO Caiyun;LIU Jianhong;College of Art & Design, Qiqihar University;College of Materials Science and Engineering,North Minzu University;College of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, North Minzu University;College of Material Science and Engineering, Qiqihar University;

【机构】 齐齐哈尔大学美术与艺术设计学院北方民族大学材料科学与工程学院北方民族大学化学与工程学院齐齐哈尔大学材料科学与工程学院

【摘要】 为了进一步研究槐米染色工艺颜色特征值的变化规律和艺术特征,以传统植物染材槐米为原料,采用水煮法萃取色素,对棉织物进行了不同染色工艺,对所得颜色特征值的变量参数进行对比研究,确定了槐米不同染色工艺的显色规律及色彩L*、a*、b*、c*值的范围。结果表明:槐米为媒染型染材,媒染工艺的色彩效果优于直接染色工艺,同媒染工艺的色彩效果优于前媒染工艺和后媒染工艺,同媒染工艺颜色特征值的L*和b*值均表现出较强的可控性,通过调整不同染液质量分数可得跨度较大的黄色系色域,具有较理想的色彩变现力。

【Abstract】 In order to further investigate the change rules and artistic features of the color characteristic value of the flos sophorae dyeing process, the traditional vegetable dyes, flos sophorae, was used as the raw materials. The pigment was extracted by the water-boiling method, followed by applying in the cotton fabric dyeing with different processes. The variable parameters of the resulted characteristic color values were compared to determine the color regularity and the range of color L*, a*, b*, c* values in different dyeing processes. The results presented that flos sophorae is the mordant dyeing material. The color of the mordant dyeing process is better than that of the direct dyeing process. Compared to the color of the former mordant dyeing process and after mordant dyeing process, the simultaneous mordant dyeing process is best. In the simultaneous mordant dyeing process, the characteristic color values of L* and b* are of strong controllability. The yellow color gamut with wide span can be obtained by adjusting the mass fraction of different dyeing liquid, which is of ideal color realization.

【关键词】 传统服饰色彩植物染色槐米黄色系
【Key words】 traditional costumescolorvegetable dyesflos sophoraeyellow
【基金】 黑龙江省教育科学“十三五”规划2016年度备案课题(GJC1316132);黑龙江省哲学社会科学研究规划项目(16YSE16);黑龙江省教育厅基本业务专项人文面上项目(135109544)
  • 【文献出处】 染整技术 ,Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal , 编辑部邮箱 ,2018年07期
  • 【分类号】TS193
  • 【被引频次】3
  • 【下载频次】165
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