【作者】 赵孔卫；

【导师】 徐广标；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织科学与工程， 2025， 博士

【摘要】 纬平针织物因高弹、舒适等特性在服装和家纺领域得到广泛应用。然而,其普遍存在的卷边问题会降低生产效率并引发一系列质量问题。现有研究主要聚焦于三个维度:（1）静态下针织物卷边的成因;（2）纤维原材料、纱线和组织结构对坯布卷边的影响;（3）卷边表征方法。当前研究存在显著不足,具体表现在以下三个方面:（1）现有评估体系在测量精度与结果可比性方面存在局限;（2）研究范畴多局限于纱线至坯布阶段,缺乏对染整环节的系统考察;（3）尚未建立可指导生产的量化模型与仿真方法,制约了理论预测能力。因此,本研究针对纬平针织物卷边问题开展系统研究:（1）构建基于图像分析法的针织物卷边测试方法;（2）系统解析纱线参数、编织工艺、染整加工等要素对卷边行为的作用机制;（3）构建针织物卷边的仿真模型,揭示卷边改善机理;（4）开发新型抗卷边织物并综合评价其服用性能。研究成果将为解决纬平针织物卷边问题提供理论支持和解决方案。主要研究内容和结论如下:（1）基于图像分析法的纬编针织物卷边性评价方法构建提出基于图像分析法的卷边测试方法,通过扫描仪和Photoshop计算卷边前后织物投影面积,并换算为卷边距离。采用卷边距离的减小量来表征卷边的严重程度,命名为卷边指数。选取10种典型试样,分别在织物左、中、右等不同部位以及第1、7和14天进行重复检测,稳定性和重现性误差均小于6%,验证了该方法具有可行性。（2）纬平针织物卷边性影响因素分析采用5种纱线,3种编织工艺,分别染浅、中、深3种颜色,以及3种不同的后整理方式,制得135种织物,探究工艺过程中卷边的变化规律,分析编织、染色以及后整理中的热定型和柔软剂对卷边的影响。研究表明,坯布阶段卷边严重,左右两侧卷边指数超过80%,上下卷边指数超过64%;染整后卷边性显著改善,左右卷边指数平均降至34.4%,上下卷边指数平均降至12.6%。研究表明,降低纱线弯曲刚度（断裂强度/伸长比）与增加线圈长度对卷边抑制具有显著效果;深色纱线因具备更高的弯曲刚度,其卷边现象较浅色系更为显著;添加柔软剂可降低纱线弯曲刚度,可改善卷边,强度/伸长比<100 cN/tex的粘胶纤维织物无卷边现象;热定型处理对改善卷边也起到积极的作用。本文建立了卷边与纱线弯曲刚度、线圈长径比、织物密度的关系方程,其中纱线弯曲刚度影响最显著,其次为线圈长径比,密度的影响系数最小。（3）纬平针织物卷边仿真模型构建与卷边改善机理研究基于针织物线圈的结构特征,利用9个型值点坐标来描述针织线圈的空间构型,基于ABAQUS平台的B-spline曲线,构建了针织物3D模型,然后在3ds Max平台上结合纬平针织物卷边关系方程,实现卷边的可视化与定量预测。从弹性纤维、纱线、结构、定型四个维度探讨卷边改善机理。织入弹性纤维并热定成网可显著提升织物力学性能,改善卷边;采用弯曲刚度较小的纱线可以减少线圈在空间中的伸直趋势,有利于卷边的改善;采用上下双层结构能形成约束,有效改变卷边;通过合理的织物工艺设计,确保定型密度合理,避免过度拉伸,可有效改善卷边。（4）抗卷边纬平针织物开发与服用效果评价基于抗卷边机理分析,开发4种抗卷边纬平针织物,在相同工艺过程条件下,比较分析了弹性纤维、纱线、结构及定型对纬编针织物卷边效果的改善情况。从弹性纤维维度,对比了XLANCE^?纤维成网与未成网对卷边的改善效果,成网织物无卷边,未成网织物左右卷边指数为31.6%;从纱线维度,对比了锦纶56与锦纶6对卷边的改善效果,低弯曲刚度的锦纶56针织物左右卷边指数降低至7%,而锦纶6针织物的左右卷边指数为31%;从结构维度,通过合理设置上下层线圈长度,实现左右不再卷边,而两种不合理对比方案中,左右卷边指数分别为32%及-24%（出现反向卷边）;从定型维度,通过调整纵向拉伸,织物的左右指数卷边由52%降低至38%。更多还原

【Abstract】 Weft-knitted jersey fabrics have been widely used in apparel and home textiles due to their high elasticity and comfort.However,the prevalent curling problem significantly reduces production efficiency while compromising product quality and aesthetic appearance.Current research primarily focuses on three aspects:（1）The formation mechanism of fabric curling under static conditions;（2）The influence of fiber materials,yarn parameters,and fabric structure on greige fabric curling;（3）Characterization methods for curling behavior.Notable limitations persist in existing studies,manifesting in three critical aspects:（1）Current evaluation systems exhibit constraints in measurement accuracy and result comparability;（2）Research scope predominantly remains confined to the yarn-to-greige fabric stage,lacking systematic investigation of dyeing and finishing processes;（3）The absence of quantifiable production-oriented models and simulation methodologies substantially restricts theoretical predictive capabilities.This study systematically investigates the curling phenomenon in weft-knitted jersey fabrics through four principal approaches:（1）Establishing a novel curling evaluation system based on image analysis methodology;（2）Comprehensive elucidation of the synergistic mechanisms among yarn parameters,knitting technologies,and dyeing-finishing processes on curling behavior;（3）Development of computational simulation models to unravel fundamental mechanisms underlying curling mitigation;（4）Engineering innovative anti-curling fabrics with thorough assessment of their wear performance.The research outcomes will provide theoretical foundations and practical solutions for addressing curling challenges in weft-knitted jersey fabrics.The major work and conclusions are as follows:1.Development of a Curling Evaluation Method for Weft-Knitted Fabrics Based on Image AnalysisA curling testing method based on image analysis is proposed,utilizing a scanner and Photoshop to calculate the projected area of fabrics before and after curling,then converts the results into curling distance.The reduction ratio of the distance before and after curling is used to quantify curling severity,which was designated as the Curling Index.Ten types of knitted fabrics were tested at left,middle,and right positions,with repeated measurements on days 1,7,and 14.Stability and reproducibility errors were both below6%,verifying the feasibility of this method.2.Analysis of Influencing Factors on Curling Behavior in Weft Knitted Jersey Fabrics Using 5 types of yarns,3 knitting processes,3 dye shades（light,medium,dark）,and 3finishing treatments,135 fabric samples were prepared to investigate curling variations during processing.The effects of knitting,dyeing,heat setting,and softener application on curling were analyzed.The results show severe curling at the greige fabric stage,with left/right curling values exceeding 80%and top/bottom curling values surpassing 64%.After dyeing and finishing,curling significantly improved,average left/right curling decreased to 34.4%and top/bottom curling to 12.6%.For fabrics with the same yarn,lower bending modulus and longer loops inhibit curling;dark-colored yarns with higher strength-to-elongation ratios exhibit greater curling;adding softeners reduces the strength-to-elongation ratio,thereby improving curling.Viscose fabrics with a strength-to-elongation ratio<100 c N/tex show no curling.Heat setting also positively mitigates curling.This study established equations correlating curling with loop aspect ratio,yarn strength-to-elongation ratio,and fabric density.The strength-to-elongation ratio exerts the most significant influence,followed by loop aspect ratio,while density has the smallest coefficient.3.Construction of a Curling Simulation Model for Weft Knitted Jersey Fabrics and Mechanistic Study on Curling ImprovementBased on the structural characteristics of knitted loops,a 3D model was constructed using nine control points to describe the spatial configuration of loops.ABAQUS software and B-spline curves were employed to build the loop and fabric models.Combined with the curling relationship equations,3ds Max was used to visualize and quantitatively predict curling.The curling improvement mechanisms were explored from four dimensions:elastic fibers,yarn,structure,and heat setting.Incorporating elastic fibers and heat-setting into a network significantly enhances mechanical properties and reduces curling;using yarns with lower bending stiffness minimizes loop straightening tendencies,thereby improving curling;adopting a double-layer structure introduces constraints that effectively alter curling;rational process design to ensure appropriate setting density and avoid over-stretching further mitigates curling.4.Development of Anti-Curling Weft Knitted Jersey Fabrics and Evaluation of Wear PerformanceBased on the anti-curling mechanisms,four types of anti-curling weft knitted fabrics were developed.Under identical processing conditions,the effects of elastic fibers,yarns,structures,and heat setting on curling improvement and wear performance were comparatively analyzed.From the elastic fiber dimension,the comparison between XLANCE^?fiber-networked and non-networked fabrics showed no curling in the former,while the latter exhibited31.6%left/right curling.From the yarn dimension,comparing nylon 56（lower bending stiffness）with nylon 6,left/right curling decreased to 7%for nylon 56 versus 31%for nylon 6.Structurally,optimizing upper and lower loop lengths eliminated left/right curling,while two improper designs resulted in 32%and-24%（reverse curling）,respectively.From the setting dimension,adjusting longitudinal stretching reduced left/right curling from 52%to 38%.z更多还原