【作者】 许静；

【导师】 付黎明；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 产品设计及其历史研究， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 在中国璀璨的历史中，宋代以其卓越的经济文化艺术成就而熠熠生辉，特别是其中辉煌的工艺美术成就。女性头饰作为宋代工艺美术中的一个部分，其设计既受到时代因素的影响，也受到宋以前的传统文化及其他民族文化的濡染；既是当时女性自身物质精神状态的折射，也体现了当时文化环境及异性的作用；既被设计方法、设计思维等主观因素所影响，又受制于物质资料、工艺技术等客观条件。在各种力的作用下，宋代女性头饰设计吸收了传统头饰的养分，立足于宋代的背景之中，结合当时的物质工艺条件，在设计制作者、女性自身以及文人士大夫的作用下，体现出了独特的魅力。宋代女性头饰设计的独特性在于：首先，头饰是饰品当中一个特殊的部分，头部的重要性使头饰相较其他饰品更为人们所重视，并且头饰文化至宋代已经较为成熟系统；其次，女性从生理层面来说比男性骨骼更为纤弱，脂肪含量更多，肌肉线条更为柔和，从心理层面而言女性比男性温柔顺从，情感也更加细腻，不同的性别特质导致不同的设计特点；再次，宋代在中国历史中是一个经济比较发达，文化氛围浓厚，政治相对开明的时间段，宋代女性头饰存在且发展于宋代这一特定的时间段，具有其独特的时代性。女性头饰的设计在宋代是一个发展的过程，具体可分为北宋初期、北宋中后期、南宋初期和南宋中后期四个部分：宋代女性头饰设计在北宋初期主要是延续了隋唐五代女性头饰的理念和形制，在此基础上亦结合当时的政治、经济、文化而有了创新和发展；北宋中后期的女性头饰设计已逐渐形成了时代的风格并步入辉煌，大量精美高雅、清新别致、意趣横生的女性头饰在此期间出现；南宋初期，女性头饰设计由于战事等因素的影响，放慢了发展的脚步；南宋中后期，随着政治的稳定，女性头饰设计得以再此迅速发展并出现明显的分流。女性头饰设计在宋代的这一发展变化与统治阶级的政策法规变化、商业经济的兴衰变化、人文环境的变化以及客观物质条件的变化等因素息息相关。这些因素作用于宋代女性头饰上，通过头饰的造型、纹样、色彩、含蕴等方面体现出来。随着女性头饰设计在宋代的不断发展，其层次逐渐丰富，头饰系统亦更为成熟：以佩戴部位来看，可分为发饰、面饰、冠饰、耳饰等；以女性的地位来看，可分为皇亲贵胄的头饰、平民女子的头饰以及歌姬优伶的头饰等；以女性成长段落来看，可分为婴孩头饰、青壮年女性头饰、老年女性头饰等。这些层次纵横分布，汇织成了一张宋代女性头饰的立体网格，不仅向后人展示了当时女性头饰设计制作的精美与丰富，同时也体现了当时设计制造者们的智慧与心血。宋代女性头饰的设计制造者们将各类头饰原料结合当时人们的各类需求，设计并制作出一件件美好的女性头饰。这些头饰的美从外在与内在两方面散发出来：就外在而言，它体现为柔美和谐、清新自然、细致玲珑、淡雅秀逸的特点；就内在而言，则体现为结构工艺的理性之美、内在生动的气韵之美和情趣互动的交流之美。不论是外在体现，还是内在涵养，都离不开其设计思想的引导。遗憾的是，宋代女性头饰的设计制作者多为当时的匠人，他们在设计的过程中多以口耳相传的方式来传承各种思维方法，因此相关的文字记载极少。本文将宋代女性头饰的出土物与相关的文字、图像等资料相结合来进行分析，综合参考其他学者的调查与研究，继而在此基础上对当时的设计思维进行逆推，总结出时人积学阅研、澄心静怀、浮想联翩、神形兼备、愈小而大、兼容并蓄的思维特点。本文从女性头饰设计的角度切入，通过考古实物、文献记载、逻辑推理、田野调查等方法的结合来探究宋代女性头饰设计的源头、流变以及整体特征、美学风格和设计思维，并通过对当时具有代表性的女性头饰设计进行文字和图像上的呈现，进而将宋代女性头饰这一美好的世界呈现在今人面前。更多还原

【Abstract】 In Chinese history, the Song Dynasty with its superior economic cultural and artisticachievement and shine, especially the magnificent art achievement. Woman headgear as apart of the Song Dynasty art and craft, which is affected by the factors of age, have alsobeen before the Song Dynasty’s culture and national culture influence; refraction was notonly women’s own material and spiritual state, and also reflects the cultural environment andthe specific role; influence is design method, design thinking such subjective factors, butalso by the material, technology and other objective conditions. Under the action of variousforces, the Song dynasty women headdress absorbed the traditional headdress nutrients,based on the background, combining the material technological conditions at that time, inthe design of producers, women themselves and literati of the action, reflects the uniquecharm.The Song Dynasty feminine unique headgear design lies in: first, jewelry, headdress isa special part of the head, the importance of the head compared to other jewelry moreattention, and headwear culture of Song Dynasty has been mature system; secondly,women from the physical level is more delicate than male skeletal, fat content more, muscleline is softer, psychologically more women than men and submissive, emotion is moredelicate, gender different in different design features; thirdly, the Song Dynasty in Chinesehistory is a economy is relatively developed, strong cultural atmosphere, relative politicalenlightened period, the Song Dynasty feminine existence and development in. In thisspecific time, has its unique era.Design of women’s headdress is a process of development in the Song Dynasty, whichcan be divided into the early Northern Song Dynasty, in the late Northern Song Dynasty, theearly Southern Song Dynasty and the Southern Song Dynasty in the late four parts: womenin the Song Dynasty. In the early Northern Song Dynasty is the continuation of the FiveDynasties and the Sui and Tang women headdress concept and form, on this basis, alsowith the political, the economy, culture and innovation and development in the late NorthernSong Dynasty; female headdress has gradually formed a style of the times and into thebrilliant, during the period of female headdress in the large elegant, fresh and unique,replete with humour; the early Southern Song Dynasty, women’s headdress due to theimpact of war and other factors, slowed down the pace of development; in the SouthernSong Dynasty, with political stability, female ornaments to the rapid development and theemergence of significant diversion. Woman headgear in the Song Dynasty the developmentand change of the ruling class changes in policies and regulations, commercial economychange, human environment changes and objective material conditions and other factors are closely related. The role of these factors in the Song dynasty women headdressheaddress, the external shape, pattern, color, content, reflected.With the continuous development of female headdress in the Song Dynasty, the levelgradually rich, system is also more mature: to wear parts, can be divided into hair, finish,crowns, earrings and so on; with the status of women, can be divided into royalty noblesheaddress, civilian women headdress and song Ji s headwear; with the growth of femaleparagraph of view, can be divided into baby headdress, marriage women headdress, adultfemale headwear. These levels of vertical and horizontal distribution, exchange weavethree-dimensional grid a women in the Song Dynasty, not only to be showing the design,exquisite and rich, but also embodies the wisdom and hard work that design manufacturers.Design the Song Dynasty feminine tire makers will headwear raw materials combinedwith people’s various needs, design and produce a piece of beautiful women. Theheaddress of the beauty from the internal and external two aspects: from external, itembodies the characteristics of mellow and harmonious, fresh and natural, elegant,meticulous and exquisite elegant; the inner beauty is reflected in the structure, processrational beauty, inner full of charm and beauty and fun interactive communication of beauty.No matter is the external manifestation, or inherent virtue, all cannot do without its designguide. Unfortunately, the Song dynasty women headdress designing multi was thecraftsman, they in the design process to teach orally way to inherit various thinking andmethods, and therefore rarely recorded related words. In this paper, the females in the SongDynasty, unearthed artifacts and related text, images and other books informationcombination, and comprehensive investigation and the research of other scholars, and thenon the basis of the design thinking of the time inversion, summed up the characteristics ofthinking when people learn to read product research, Cheng Huai, calm the mind, both Godshaped, more thoughts thronged one’s mind. The small and large, fully inclusive andequitable.This paper starts from the female head angle, through a combination of archaeology,literature, logical reasoning, field survey and other methods to explore the source of theSong Dynasty feminine headdress, rheological and whole feature, the design aesthetic styleand design thinking, and by that time the representative female headdress of text and imageof the show the Song Dynasty, female headdress of this beautiful world in front of us.更多还原