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天然彩色棉吸湿性能及针织物湿舒适性能的研究
【作者】 陈莉；
【导师】 黄故；
【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 纺织工程， 2006， 博士
【摘要】 生态危机是二十一世纪人类共同面临的最大危机,纺织品的健康、舒适、环保特性越来越受到人们的关注。天然彩色棉集健康、环保于一体,被誉为“人类第二健康肌肤”,具有广阔的市场应用前景。 由于目前天然彩色棉的开发尚处于初级阶段,纤维还存在性能较差、色泽单调等问题,使得纤维的发展受到了制约。因而,加强彩色棉基础理论和纺纱、织造、后处理加工理论和工艺的研究,开发高档次的彩棉制品,提高纤维的经济效益和社会效益,是纺织工作者面临的一项重要课题。 本文在测试彩色棉纤维性能和结构的基础上,研究了彩色棉的吸湿性能,碱处理与果胶酶处理对彩色棉纤维性能的影响,处理后纤维内部结构的变化,彩棉针织物湿舒适性的影响因素,针织物湿舒适性的模糊综合评价,以及彩棉针织物湿舒适性的典型相关分析。 在对彩色棉纤维的性能和结构进行研究的基础上,主要对彩色棉纤维的吸湿性能进行研究。用果胶酶与碱对彩色棉纤维进行除杂处理以改善彩色棉的吸湿性,根据处理后纤维性能的变化,指出果胶酶处理效果比碱处理的好,又根据极差分析结果选择影响吸湿性和色差的单因素,并对其进行分析,作为制定果胶酶处理工艺的参考。对处理后纤维内部结构的变化进行比较,主要包括纤维的表面结构、果胶含量和脂蜡质含量、空隙率及色素分布,揭示了纤维处理后性能发生变化的内在原因,作为制定果胶酶处理工艺的依据。 本文研究了织物的结构参数和组织结构对针织物湿舒适性的影响,因而如何评价织物湿舒适性成为设计舒适织物的关键。通过研究织物的湿传递机理,选择了吸湿速度常数、透湿率、透气率、润湿时间、导湿综合指标、干燥率六项指标,全面反映织物的湿舒适性能。测试结果通过建立模糊综合评价模型,引用Matlab编程语言自动实现。 为了研究织物气态湿传递性和液态湿传递性之间的相关性,本文首次将典型相关分析引入纺织领域,解决两组变量的相关性问题。建立典型相关分析模块,采用Matlab语言实现自动分析,为解决纺织领域科研和生产中的多元问题提供了一种新的思路和方法。
【Abstract】 Since ecological crisis is the most serious crisis confronted all mankind, the health, comfort and environmental protection of textile products have been brought to our concern. Naturally colored cotton is termed "The Second Healthy Skin" to human because it gathered health and environmental protection together. It seems that there is a good market prospect of the fiber.But some problems exist because the development of naturally colored cotton is still in primary stage at present, such as the performance is not good, pigment is monotonous, ect, that hinder the fiber from further developing. Consequently, the task facing to the textile workers is, strengthening the theory and technology on basic performance and structure, spinning, manufacturing and processing, developing superior quality products, increasing economic and social benefit of naturally colored cotton.This dissertation studied fiber’s performance and structure of naturally colored cotton at first, on the basis of that, conducting investigations as follows: fiber’s wettability performance, influence on fiber’s performance after processed by alkaline and pectinase, variation of fiber’s inner structure after processed, influential factors on the moisture comfort of knitted fabric made of the fiber, fuzzy synthetical evaluation on the moisture comfort of knitted fabric, and canonical correlation analysis on the moisture comfort of knitted fabric made of the fiber.On the basis of study of performance and structure, the wettability performance of fiber was mainly studied. Using alkaline and pectinase to process fiber to remove impurities for improving its wettability, the variations of perfonnance of fiber showed that pectinase is better than alkaline. Also several single factors influencing wettability and chromatism were chosen and analyzed, which could be useful in selecting the process parameters. Comparison of inner structure indicated that pectinase processing is more suitable for naturally colored cotton, which revealed the foundational causes of the performance variations.In this dissertation, influences on knitted fabric’s moisture comfort are studied by different structure parameters and textures. Hence how to evaluate moisture comfort isone of the key factors to design comfortable fabrics. By means of moisture transmission mechanism, six indexes were selected so as to evaluate moisture comfort more effectively. The testing results are processed by establishing fuzzy synthetical evaluation module. All calculation was carried out automatically based on the software. Canonical correlation in considered to be the first time used in the textile fields, assisted with Matlab, canonical correlation analysis module is carried out automatically. This research provides a new way to settle plurality correlation problem for scientific research and production in textile fields.