基于面料力学性能的服装缝纫平整度等级客观评价系统的建立

【作者】 刘侃；

【导师】 张渭源；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2005， 博士

【摘要】 随着世界范围内的质量标准体系和规范测试方法的逐步推广和应用,以及服装生产快速反应的需求,有必要建立一套根据可测量面料各项性能指标来预测成衣加工质量的客观评价系统。本文利用世界上目前通用的FAST面料力学性能测试系统对一定范围内常用服装面料进行测定,进行了面料各项FAST力学性能与缝纫平整度关系研究、面料斜向力学性能及斜向缝纫性能的变化研究以及粘衬后面料各项力学性能的变化研究。在此基础上,引入各种统计理论、回归分析及人工神经网络等模式识别方法,建立基于面料各项力学性能值的面料缝纫平整度等级客观评价模型以及基于面料力学性能、粘合衬力学性能值的粘衬组合物缝纫平整度等级客观评价模型。 本文的主要贡献简述如下: (1)第一章首先阐述了建立服装缝纫外观平整性客观评价系统的研究意义,重点概述了国内外有关服装面料性能与缝纫性能的关系研究、服装缝纫性能客观评价系统的研究,同时介绍了面料性能测试仪器及对缝纫性能的客观评价方法。 (2)第二章首次采用肯德尔τ-b秩相关(Kendall’s tau-b)分析法和斯皮尔曼秩相关(Spearman’s rho)分析法分别对面料的结构力学性能、拉伸力学性能、弯曲力学性能、剪切力学性能、成型性及尺寸稳定性能与面料的缝纫等级进行了相关性分析研究,得出面料的七个结构力学性能指标均与面料的缝纫性能具有相关性,同时七个指标之间也具有较高的相关性;面料的拉伸伸长性能指标中,除了EB5、G两个指标与面料的缝纫性能相关性较低外,其它指标与缝纫性能具有一定的相关性,同时EB5、G与其它各拉伸伸长性能指标之间也具有一定的相关性;面料弯曲力学性能中的弯曲刚度B较弯曲长度C与面料的缝纫性能相关性大,同时由于弯曲刚度是弯曲长度经由一定的公式计算出来的,故二者之间具有较高的相关关系;面料的成型性指标F与缝纫性能具有较大的相关性;面料尺寸稳定性中的松驰收缩与面料的缝纫性能具有一定的相关性,吸湿膨胀与面料的缝纫性能相关性较差,松驰收缩与吸湿膨胀之间的相关性亦较低。对不同结构类型的服装面料缝纫性能随力学性能的变化作出分析。 (3)在服装缝制过程中,要将二维的平面面料变成三维的曲面服装,沿面料不同方向缝纫是不可避免的,由于面料的各向异性,沿不同斜向面料的伸长变形能力、弯曲能力及成型性均有所变化,而一般FAST系统测试过程中仅对面料的经纬方向进行测定,不可能对任一角度进行测量,故如何根据面料经纬向力学性能值预测任一角度力学性能值是对面料缝纫性能客观评价所必须解决的问题。第三章通过实验研究考察了面料沿不同角度缝纫时的缝纫性能变化及相对应的面料物理机械性能的变化,得出面料沿斜向45“方向具有最大的拉伸伸长率,向经纬方向逐渐递减;面料的弯曲刚度随斜裁角度的变化由经向向纬向呈逐渐下降趋势,这是因为大多数面料经密大于纬密所致,存在扭抗变形的面料,其最小弯曲刚度将出现在经纬向之间,而不是在纬向;面料的成型性随斜裁角度的变化趋势类似于面料的拉伸伸长率的变化趋势,均呈以450角附近为最大,向经纬向逐渐递减的趋势。假定面料在低应力下的拉伸变形为弹性变形,建立面料斜向拉伸伸长力学性能预测模型,实现由经纬两向拉伸伸长值预测任一角度拉伸伸长值,同时在分析验证前人斜向弯曲理论基础上,确定最优斜向弯曲刚度预测模型。 (4)第四章首次采用基于人工神经网络的建模方法,利用前面得出的斜向力学性能预测模型计算面料任意角度的各项力学性能值,实现了通过面料的基本力学指标对面料沿任意方向缝纫时的外观平整性能进行的非线性预测。为了提高神经网络的学习效率、对织物的各项力学指标进行主成分分析,提取了六个主因子作为网络的输入参数,经过大量的训练、,得出最佳网络模型,该模型对各类面料的缝纫平整性能的预测均达到90%以上。将神经网络模型与传统的多元回归模型进行对比分析表明:基于神经网络的预测模型比传统的回归分析方法具有更好的精度。(5)粘合衬是制作服装不可缺少的重要辅料。由于织物在粘衬后其力学性能会更多还原

【Abstract】 With the criterion systems of quality and measurement generalizing in the world and the requirement of Quick Response System in garment manufacturing, it is necessary to set up a series of objective evaluation systems of garment quality in manufacturing based on the fabric properties. In this thesis, we carried out a series of research using FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) system to measure the mechanical properties of fabric. The research involves four aspects, which have the strong relations with each other: research on the relationship between fabric mechanical properties and garment seam pucker grade, investigation of the relationship between fabric mechanical properties and seam pucker grade in the bias direction, study on the relationship between mechanical properties of fused composites and those of the face and fusible interlining fabrics, introducing some pattern recognition such as various statistic theories, regression analysis and artificial neural network to establish the objective evaluation systems of the fabric seam-pucker grade and fused composites seam-pucker grade in tailored garment.The brief introductions of each chapter are as follows:Chapter 1 gave the summaries of recent research work in the field of garment seam-pucker grade assessment for both overseas and domestic. The aspects involved included the significances of establishment of objective evaluation system of fabric seam-pucker grade in the garment manufacturing, methods and instruments of measuring the fabric mechanical and seam-pucker of the garments, and the ways to set up the impersonal assessment of garment seam-pucker grade.Chapter 2 firstly used Kendall’s tau-b and Spearman’s rho analyses to investigate the relativities between the garment seam-pucker grades and the fabric mechanicals properties such as structural properties, extension properties, bending properties, shearproperties, formability and dimension stability. The conclusion is that there are strong relationships between seven structural mechanical properties of the fabric and garment seam-pucker grades, also relationships within themselves. All of the extension mechanical properties have the relations with the garment seam-pucker grades except the properties of EB5 and G those have the relations with other properties. The bending length C has the less relations with garment seam-pucker than bending rigidity B which was calculated from bending length and has strong relationship with bending length. Fabric formability has the obvious relativity with the garment seam-pucker grade, and fabric relaxation shrinkage has the stronger relation with the garment seam-pucker grade than the fabric hygral expansion in the dimension stability, and they have lower relativity with each other. We also investigated the changes of garment seam-pucker grades in different woven fabrics along with the changes of the fabric mechanical properties.When we make the 2-D fabrics into the 3-D garments, cutting and sewing the fabrics along the bias directions is inevitable. Owing to the fabric anisotropy, some mechanical properties such as extension properties, bending properties and formability have different values in the different directions. So it must be solved that we may predict the mechanical property values of any directions of fabric by means of the values of warp and weft of fabric measured with FAST system in garment seam-pucker objective assessment. In Chapter 3, we studied on the changes of fabric mechanical properties and garment seam-pucker grades through experimentation with the fabrics made up in the bias directions. We concluded that the woven fabrics have the largest extension in the 45° direction and gradually descend to warp and weft directions. The largest bending rigidity mostly occurred in warp direction and came down to weft direction because warp density is mostly bigger than weft density in woven fabrics. But if there were twist distortions in woven fabrics, the smallest bending rigidity occurred in one point between warp and weftdirection. The changes of fo更多还原