【摘要】 该文采用两种不同频谱形式(等波陡和等波幅)、不同水深,通过波浪聚焦的方法在水池中产生多向聚焦波和破碎波,实验研究了破碎波的波面特性、破碎波的破碎指标及传播过程中的频谱变化,结果表明频谱形式、水深及方向分布对破碎波浪特性有明显的影响;波浪传播过程中频谱高频部分有明显的变化;波浪破碎过程中的能量损失主要来自波浪频谱高频部分。更多还原

【Abstract】 This paper presents the experimental study on the multi-directional focusing waves and breaking waves,which are generated in wave basin by using focusing wave method with two different spectrums(constant wave amplitude spectrum and constant wave steepness spectrum) and two different water depths.For the breaking wave,the wave surface characteristics,the breaking criteria and the spectral variation during the wave packet propagation were studied.The results show that spectral distribution,water depth and wave directionality affect the breaking wave characteristics.The wave spectra in high frequency range are distinctly changing during the packet propagation,and the shift of higher frequencies can be distinctly observed.Energy losses during wave breaking are mainly from higher frequency wave band.更多还原