【摘要】 对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个测站的波面数据 ,通过小波变换方法计算了小波能谱 ,并作了显著性检验。结果表明 :( 1 )碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性 ;( 2 )在正常波况下 ,波能主要分布于风浪频域 ,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中 ,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势 ;( 3)在高能波况下 ,能量均向长重力波频带增加 ,在长重力波显著尺度 ,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on the wave data of two stations measured in the surf zone between two headlands under different wave conditions, the wavelet spectra are computed with wavelet transform and the statistically significant levels are tested in this paper. The results are as follows.(1) The remarkable multiple scales of wave energy oscillations exist in the surf zone. (2) Under normal wave condition, wave energy is mainly distributed in wind wave frequencies and transfers to the low frequencies while the incident wave proceeds from the outer station to the inner station. (3) Wave energy increases towards infragravity wave frequencies under high waves, and the phases of two stations are consistent on the obvious scale of infragravity wave.更多还原