【作者】 李敏； 李东平； 张渭源； 尹红伟；

【Author】 LI Min LI Dong-ping ZHANG Wei-yuan YIN Hong-wei (College of Fashion,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

【机构】 东华大学服装学院；

【摘要】 为了评价功能性纤维的服用热湿舒适性能, 选取新型珍珠共混纤维素纤维及其混纺针织物和常用针织面料如天丝,丽赛,莫代尔、牛奶纤维、棉为内衣样本,进行了流程为休息、轻微运动、跑步运动、休息的主现实验,对温暖感、湿舒适感、粘体感、闷热感、粗糙感、柔软感、垂感、刺痒感、松紧感、总体评价进行评分,实验结果经 Kendall 协同系数检验证明具有一致性．聚类分析表明在安静状态下,珍珠纤维的服用舒适性与粘胶纤维、莫代尔、丽赛和珍珠纤维/天丝/莫代尔可聚为一类；在跑步运动状态下,珍珠纤维仍与粘胶、丽赛和莫代尔聚为一类,说明其具有良好的吸湿透气性,适宜做夏季服装及内衣．更多还原

【Abstract】 In order to evaluate heat and moisture comfort sensations of functional fabric,different kinds of knitted fabrics are chosen as underwear samples made of novel pearl-cellulose blend fiber and other functional fibers including tencel, richcel,modal,milk fiber,cotton etc.Then subjective experiment with four stages is taken including rest,walking,running and rest.Wearers give score to comfort properties of thermal,moisture,clinging,stifling,rough,soft,drape,prickle,tight and overall.Based on the test of kendall’s coefficient of concordance,the result shows although there are differences between wearers,their grades are consistency.Through clustering analysis,in stage of rest,pearl-cellulose blend fiber is similar with viscose,modal,richcel,PC fiber/tencel/modal on comfort sensations.In stage of running,pearl-cellulose blend fiber is still similar with viscose,Richcel,Modal.Pearl-cellulose blend fiber is proved to have good air permeability, water vapor transmission.Its fabric is suitable for summer clothing and underwear.更多还原