【作者】 张莉；

【导师】 徐广标；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织科学与工程， 2025， 硕士

【摘要】 木棉纤维是一种轻、细、软、具有大中腔结构的天然植物纤维。因其保暖、亲肤、抗菌等特性常被用于制作家居服、袜子等日常使用过程中频繁洗涤的贴身衣物,但木棉纤维短、脆、纺织加工后分布于纱线和织物表面等特点使其在洗涤过程中容易受机械力作用而造成损失,因此,选择合适的洗涤方式对木棉/棉混纺针织物非常重要,而在已有文献中尚未有关于木棉织物洗涤的系统研究,本论文以木棉/棉混纺针织物为研究对象,深入探究木棉纤维结构与性能、木棉/棉混纺针织物洗涤参数优化以及洗涤对不同组织木棉/棉混纺针织物结构与性能的影响。研究结果为科学洗涤木棉/棉混纺针织物提供参考与依据。论文主要研究内容与结论如下:(1)木棉纤维结构与性能评价测试评价木棉纤维形态结构、长度、细度、回潮率、红外光谱、结晶度、取向度、热学性能、拉伸性能等结构性能。结果表明:木棉纤维有大中腔结构、壁薄、表面有纹理,长度主要分布在14-22 mm之间,直径主要分布在14-19μm之间,细度为0.68 tex,回潮率为11.1%,红外光谱显示纤维素、半纤维素和木质素的特征峰,结晶度为31.13%,取向度为43.32%,热分解从219℃开始分解到375℃左右结束,强度均值为0.87 cN/dtex。(2)木棉/棉混纺针织物洗涤参数优化采用洗涤温度(20℃、40℃、60℃)、洗涤次数(1次、5次、10次)、干燥方式(翻转烘干、悬挂晾干、平摊晾干)三因素,设计三因素三水平正交实验,研究洗涤对重量损失率、木棉含量、透气率、热阻、透湿、尺寸变化率、接触角及压缩性能等指标的影响,进而优化洗涤参数。结果表明:经洗涤后木棉纤维表面粗糙度增加,原纤化且伴随裂痕、断头产生;洗涤温度为织物重量损失的主要影响因素,流失的主要成分为木棉;透气率提升,热阻下降,洗涤温度为主要影响因素,但透湿性更多取决于洗涤次数;尺寸变化率随洗涤温度提高先增大后减小,随洗涤次数增加而增大;接触角随洗涤次数呈现先增大后减小的趋势;1次洗涤后织物蓬松度略有提高,后呈现下降趋势,洗涤温度高织物蓬松度下降,回弹性减弱。综合各指标,洗涤温度20℃、洗涤次数少为最优洗涤方式,干燥方式对织物的影响不大。(3)洗涤对不同组织的木棉/棉混纺针织物性能影响采用纬平、罗纹、双罗纹的木棉/棉混纺以及纯棉等四种针织物,洗涤工艺为洗涤温度20℃、翻转烘干、1次和5次洗涤。结果表明:洗涤后纤维表面粗糙度增加,木棉纤维仍保持中空结构,纤维出现断头情况;双罗纹织物的重量损失率、木棉纤维损失相对较小;纵向尺寸缩小,横向尺寸扩大,双罗纹织物的尺寸相对稳定,木棉/棉混纺针织物与纯棉织物的尺寸变化率未出现明显差异;随着洗涤次数增加,透气性均匀提升,纬平针的透气性最优;随着洗涤次数增加,热阻降低,1次洗涤即出现显著降低,双罗纹织物的热阻最优,木棉/棉混纺针织物的热阻优于纯棉织物;罗纹织物的压缩比功最高,最蓬松,木棉/棉混纺针织物洗涤1次后蓬松度提高,木棉/棉混纺针织物比纯棉针织物蓬松。(4)洗涤对木棉/棉混纺针织物吸湿排汗性能影响采用纬平、罗纹、双罗纹的木棉/棉混纺以及纯棉等四种针织物,洗涤工艺为洗涤温度20℃、翻转烘干、1次和5次洗涤。评价吸湿排汗性能,结果发现:洗涤后吸水率下降,木棉/棉混纺针织物优于纯棉织物;洗涤后芯吸高度上升,纬平针织物最高,木棉/棉混纺针织物优于纯棉织物;洗涤后滴水扩散时间显著缩短,纬平针织物最优;洗涤后蒸发速率提高,纬平针表现最优,木棉/棉混纺针织物优于纯棉织物;洗涤后纬平针织物透湿率最高,木棉/棉混纺针织物优于纯棉针织物。通过模糊综合评价对织物吸湿排汗性能进行优先级评估,结果表明:纬平针织物的吸湿排汗性能最优,相同组织的木棉/棉混纺针织物的吸湿排汗性能优于纯棉织物,在未洗涤、洗涤1次、洗涤5次的织物中,随洗涤次数增加,吸湿排汗性能呈现逐渐提升的趋势。更多还原

【Abstract】 Kapok fiber is a natural plant fiber characterized by its lightness,fineness,softness,and large lumen structure.Due to its thermal insulation,skin-friendly properties,and antibacterial features,it is commonly used in underwear and garments that undergo frequent washing during daily use,such as loungewear and socks.However,the short length,brittleness of kapok fibers,and their distribution on the surface of yarns and fabrics after textile processing make them prone to loss under mechanical forces during washing.Therefore,selecting appropriate washing methods is crucial for kapok-blended fabrics.Existing literature lacks systematic research on the laundering of kapok fabrics.This paper focuses on kapok-blended knitted fabrics,conducting an in-depth investigation into the structure and properties of kapok fibers,optimization of laundry parameters for kapok-blended knitted fabrics,and the impact of washing on the structure and performance of kapok-blended knitted fabrics with different constructions.The research outcomes provide scientific references and a basis for the proper care of kapok-blended knitted fabrics during washing.(1)Structural and functional characterization of kapok fiberThe structural properties of kapok fibers,including morphological structure,length,fineness,moisture regain,infrared spectrum,crystallinity,orientation degree,thermal properties,and tensile properties,were tested and evaluated.The results indicate that kapok fibers exhibit a large central lumen structure with thin walls and a textured surface.Their length primarily ranges from 14 to 22 mm,while the diameter mainly falls between 14 and 19μm.The fineness measures0.68 tex,with a moisture regain of 11.1%.Infrared spectroscopy revealed characteristic peaks of cellulose,hemicellulose,and lignin.The crystallinity was determined to be 31.13%,and the orientation degree reached 43.32%.Thermal decomposition occurred between 219°C and approximately 375°C.The average tensile strength was measured at 0.88 cN/tex.(2)Laundering parameter optimizationThis study employed a three-factor,three-level orthogonal experimental design(washing temperature:20℃,40℃,60℃;washing cycles:1,5,10;drying methods:tumble drying,hang drying,flat drying)to investigate the effects of laundering on weight loss rate,kapok content,air permeability,thermal resistance,moisture permeability,dimensional change rate,contact angle,and compression properties,aiming to optimize washing parameters.The results revealed that washing increased fiber surface roughness,induced fibrillation,and caused cracks and broken ends.Washing temperature was identified as the primary factor influencing fabric weight loss,with kapok being the predominant component lost.Air permeability improved and thermal resistance decreased with higher washing temperatures,while moisture permeability depended more on washing cycles.Dimensional change rate initially increased and then decreased with rising washing temperature but consistently increased with washing cycles.The contact angle exhibited an initial increase followed by a decrease with repeated washing.Fabric loft slightly improved after the first wash but declined thereafter;higher washing temperatures reduced loft and weakened resilience.Comprehensive analysis indicated that a washing temperature of 20℃and minimal washing cycles were optimal,while drying methods had negligible effects on fabric performance.(3)Laundering effects across knit structuresComparative analysis of four knits(plain/rib/interlock kapok-cotton blends;pure cotton)under 20°C wash and tumble drying(1/5 cycles)demonstrated:Sustained hollow kapok structure despite surface damage;Interlock knits exhibited minimal weight/kapok loss and dimensional stability;Longitudinal shrinkage vs.transverse expansion across structures,with comparable dimensional changes between kapok blends and pure cotton;Progressive air permeability enhancement(plain knits optimal);Thermal resistance degradation(significant after 1 cycle;interlock knits superior;kapok blends outperformed pure cotton);Ribbed fabric exhibits the highest compression resilience and the loftiest structure,while kapok-blended knitted fabrics are fluffier than pure cotton knitted fabrics.(4)Moisture management performanceFour types of knitted fabrics—single jersey,ribbed,interlock kapok/cotton blends,and pure cotton—were subjected to washing processes at 20°C with tumble drying for 1 and 5 cycles to evaluate their moisture-wicking properties.The results showed that after washing,the water absorption rate decreased,with kapok-blended fabrics outperforming pure cotton counterparts.The wicking height increased post-washing,peaking in single jersey fabrics,where kapok blends also surpassed pure cotton.The water droplet diffusion time shortened significantly,with single jersey fabrics demonstrating the best performance.The evaporation rate improved after washing,with single jersey fabrics exhibiting the highest rate,and kapok-blended fabrics showing superior evaporation compared to pure cotton.Additionally,single jersey fabrics displayed the highest moisture permeability after washing,with kapok blends again exceeding pure cotton.A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation prioritized the moisture-wicking performance,revealing that single jersey fabrics exhibited optimal properties,kapok-blended fabrics of the same structure outperformed pure cotton,and across all fabrics(unwashed,1-cycle washed,5-cycle washed),the moisture-wicking performance gradually improved with increasing washing cycles.更多还原