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特稿:关于一种裙子的社群—透析Lo圈生态

Feature Story:About the Communit-Ty of Lolita-Dialysis of the ’Lo Circle’

【作者】 黄莹

【导师】 吴红雨;

【作者基本信息】 浙江大学 , 新闻与传播(专业学位), 2020, 硕士

【摘要】 2019年是Lo娘频频出圈的一年。从Lo圈手撕抖音百万粉丝网红到Lo警当街辱骂穿山寨Lo裙的女孩,再到澎湃新闻曝光二手购物平台上存在的Lo娘“裙色交易”现象,在媒介话语中,Lo圈与Lo娘被贴上了许多负面的标签。但这些负面问题仅仅源于个人吗?这个群体所组成的圈子在形成这些问题时是否产生过作用却无从知晓。而想要探究圈子在其中的作用,也许就得先了解这是一个怎样的圈子。通过深度访谈与互联网田野观察,笔者试图揭示这一亚文化群体的行为动因,还原Lo圈的结构与运作方式,挖掘其中存在的矛盾与分歧,从而为进一步研究这一社群提供一个基础标本。笔者发现,作为一个围绕Lo裙形成的亚文化群体,Lo圈成为这一群体开辟出的小天地。她们通过创造独特的符号体系建构“自己人”与“他者”的区隔,通过圈内的关键节点“树洞”形成“意见的自由市场”,在讨论中制定规则确立群体身份,通过线上社交与线下的仪式性活动“茶会”增强群体的向心力与凝聚力,通过“种草姬”这一角色实现圈内身份的流动。此外,笔者发现,在Lo娘群体为了获取自信、解放穿衣权力、对抗主流偏见的初心中,随着资本的进入与Lolita文化下沉圈子扩大,Lo圈在发展中也出现了若干矛盾与冲突。例如圈内“鄙视链”盛行、穿衣原教旨主义与自由主义的对抗、Lo警执法、处于群体身边认同边界的“土味Lo娘”等。在这些分歧中,笔者认为应该反思这个亚文化圈子与消费主义之间的关系,应该重新审视其是否还具有原本的功能,抑或是已被资本和市场同化与收编,成为了另一个消费陷阱。

【Abstract】 2019 is a year of those who wear Lolita frequently come to the public eye.From"Lo circle" started a war to an Internet celebrity who has millions of fans,to a Lolita girl abused another girl wearing fake Lolita skirt,and then to a news media exposed the phenomenon of giving Lolita skirt almost for free in exchange for sex on second-hand shopping platform."Lo circle" and "Lo Niang" are labeled with many negative impressions in media discourse.But do these negative problems stem only from individuals?It is not yet known whether the "Lo circle" has worked in shaping these problems.And to explore the role of the "Lo circles" in it,it may be necessary to understand what kind of circle this is.By means of in-depth interview and field observation on the Internet,I tried to reveal the behavioral motivation of this sub-cultural group,restore the structure and operation mode of the "Lo circle",excavate the contradictions and differences in it,and thus provide a basic specimen for further study of this community.I found that as a sub-cultural group formed around the Lolita skirt,"Lo circle"becomes a small world created by this group.By creating a unique symbol system,they construct the separation between their own and others,through the circle of key nodes "tree hole",they formed a "free market of opinion" to discuss the rules in order to establish group identity,through the online social and offline ritual activity "tea party" to enhance the group’s centripetal force and cohesion and through the role of"zhong cao Ji" to achieve the flow of identity in the group.Moreover,I found that "Lo Niang" expect to gain self-confidence,liberate the power of dressing and fight against the mainstream prejudice though wearing the Lolita skirt at the beginning,but with the entry of capital and the sinking of Lolita culture,there are some contradictions and conflicts in the development of the "Lo circle".Such as the prevalence of "chain of contempt" in the group,the confrontation between clothing fundamentalism and liberalism,the law-executor "Lo police",the"Tuwei Lo Niang" and so on.Among these differences,I thinks that it is necessary to reflect on the relationship between this subculture group and consumerism,and re-examine whether it still maintains its original mind,or has been assimilated and compiled by capital and market,which has become another consumption trap.

【关键词】 亚文化群体洛丽塔消费主义
【Key words】 Sub-cultural groupsLolitaconsumerism
  • 【网络出版投稿人】 浙江大学
  • 【网络出版年期】2021年 02期
  • 【分类号】G206
  • 【下载频次】451
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