【作者】 陈思；

【导师】 蒋秋冉；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2017， 硕士

【摘要】 经纱上浆是织造前准备的重要工艺之一。传统浆纱工艺中采用聚乙烯醇(PVA)作为浆料,其上浆性能优异,目前其他浆料均无法超越或替代它,但含有PVA的退浆废水会对环境带来污染。为避免使用PVA,且保证优良的上浆性能,需要开发新型浆纱工艺。本课题基于纤维素低温溶解体系,建立了无需使用浆料的纤维素基纱线的浆纱方法,利用低温碱尿素溶液来溶解或部分溶解天然纤维素纤维表层成分,该溶解或部分溶解的物质脱离该体系后,在纤维表面固化形成不连续的薄层浆膜,由此来实现纱线的增强与毛羽的贴附。本研究以棉纱为研究样本,采用-15°C的7 wt%氢氧化钠/12wt%尿素作为处理液,首先探索不同处理时间(10 s、30 s、1 min、5 min、10 min、30 min)对纱线性能的影响,通过比较不同处理时间的纱线表面形态、结晶度、断裂强度、断裂伸长、初始模量,毛羽及耐磨性分析,探索不同处理时间以确定纱线综合性能较优的处理时间;其次比较该处理时间下的纱线与传统上浆技术(10 wt%变性淀粉浆料上浆和6 wt%变性淀粉/4 wt%PVA混合浆料上浆)处理的纱线比较,研究无浆料浆纱技术处理的纱线的化学组成、染色性能、纱线细度、毛羽、断裂强力、弯曲刚度、及不同摩擦程度下纱线的剩余强力等验证其可织造性能,并与传统上浆技术的退浆后的纱线进行比较,预测该技术对未来成布的强度、伸长等性能的影响;最后采用该技术处理的纱线作为经纱进行上机织造,并与采用传统上浆技术的成布及其退浆样比较,研究该技术对成布弯曲刚度和柔软感主观评价的影响,验证该技术的免退浆性。通过上述研究得到以下结论:(1)纤维结晶度会随着处理时间增加而下降,其下降范围为0.9~25.1%,验证了该溶液体系对棉纤维的处理效应。无浆料浆纱技术可有效提高纱线的上浆性能,其中强度提高24.3~34.9%,耐磨性增加了28.7~60.6%,大于2 mm的有害毛羽数量减少了12.4~64.6%,此外,处理对纱线的延弹性影响小。(2)当处理时间选择5 min时,无浆料浆纱技术可获得与传统上浆技术相当的性能,预测其符合经纱的上机要求;此外,处理后染色性能提高了近50%,且纱线基本保持其原有的弯曲刚度。(3)与传统技术中先经纱上浆后成布退浆的织物相比,无浆料浆纱技术处理的纱线作为经纱织造成布后,即使不进行退浆处理,织物对人体无害,染色性依然十分柔软。综上,无浆料浆纱技术可以提高原纱的上浆性能,且基本可达到与传统上浆技术处理效果;与之相比,无浆料浆纱技术还具有缩短工艺流程,提高生产效率的优点,生产成本低、能耗水耗小、不消耗浆料且处理液回收利用率高,具有工业应用的潜力。更多还原

【Abstract】 Sizing process is important for weaving.Polyvinyl alcohol(PVA)is usually used in traditional sizing process.It can endow warps excellent sizing effects,and other sizes can hardly surpass it.Since the desizing wastewater including PVA can cause serious pollutions,a new sizing technology is necessary to reduce the desizing wastewater pollution.In this research,a size-free sizing technology for cellulosic yarns was developed based on the theory of cellulose dissolution mechanism.In this low temperature solution,materials fibers’ surfaces could be partially dissolved or swelled.And the dissolved materials would be solidified after leaving the solution,forming thin films to reinforce yarns and attach hairiness to the yarn body.In the research,the first aim was to study the effect of different treatment time(10s,30 s,1min,5min,30min)on cotton yarn’s characteristics.Thus their morphology,crystallinity,breaking strength,initial moduli,breaking elongation,hairiness number and length,and abrasive resistance performance were compared to select the appropriate treatment time.Secondly,yarns were treated by different treatments,conventional sizing process(using 10 % starch size,6% starch/ 4% PVA mixing size)and size-free sizing treatment.To analyze the weaveability of treated yarns,their chemical component,dyeability,fineness,hairiness,tensile properties,blending stiffness,and residues breaking force after rubbing different circles were studied.Moreover,the effect of treatment on the strength and elongation of future fabrics also could been predicted by the comparison with desized yarns.Finally,weaving processes were conducted to verify the weaveability of treated yarns,in which warps were yarns treated in different sizing processes and wefts were untreated cotton yarns.Besides,to make sure that fabric treated by size-free sizing technology without desizing process can obtain good softness,its bending stiffness and scratchiness were tested to compare with desized fabrics’(their warps were sized by traditional sizing process).The results are as follows:The reducing of yarns’ crystallinity decreasing to 0.9~25.1% suggested the dissolution effect of this mechanism on cotton fibers.The cotton yarns’ sizing properties were markedly improved by the treatment.The strength was increased to 24.3~34.9 %,The treatment could not only enhance abrasion resistance of yarns,about 28.7~60.6% incensement,but also maintain good elasticity,and substantially reduced 12.4~64.6% harmful hairiness.The yarn treated in 5 min showed good weaveability comparable to the two sized by traditional sizing agents,which would meet the warp requirement for weaving process.After treatment,the yarn kept original softness and hydrophilic groups in cotton fibers increased,contributing to an improvement of dyeability,roughly 50% improved.In the low temperature alkali-amide solution,since no chemicals were brought into yarns and its fabric was still soft,the desizing process could be omitted.To sum up,size-free sizing technology can greatly improve raw cotton yarns’ sizing properties,which next to yarns treated by traditional sizing process.Beside,comparing with the traditional sizing process,the developed size-free sizing process for cotton yarns,lower cost,shorter process,efficient production,energy consumption and carbon emission,showing a good potential in industrial production.更多还原