【作者】 李莹；

【导师】 毛志平； 李卫东；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2015， 硕士

【摘要】 随着科学技术的发展及人们对穿着舒适美观要求的提高，再生纤维素纤维在服装加工中的使用量逐年增加。生产中，再生纤维素纤维常与棉纤维进行混纺，再进一步进行丝光处理，以改善织物的服用性能、降低成本。混纺织物中的纤维种类及其含量是重要的检测参数，目前常用的丝光棉/再生纤维素纤维混纺织物的定量分析方法有物理法、甲酸/氯化锌法、59.5%硫酸法和混酸法等。物理法由于耗时长，效率低，应用受到一定限制。其他三种方法属于化学法，定量机理是将聚合度、结晶度低的再生纤维溶解掉，剩余聚合度、结晶度高的棉纤维。由于棉纤维与再生纤维结构相同，在化学试剂中，棉纤维也会发生一定程度的损伤甚至溶解，所以需要修正值d对棉纤维溶解前后的质量进行修正，以获得准确的定量结果。丝光处理造成棉纤维损伤、微观结构及理化性能发生变化，尤其在现行标准规定的化学试剂中损伤增大，而标准未对丝光棉的修正值作出明确规定，造成定量不准确。本文针对使用较为普遍的甲酸/氯化锌法和59.5%硫酸法，研究了棉纤维丝光前后性能变化及在两种化学溶剂中降解程度与丝光度的关系，从而找出合适的修正值d，使得丝光棉这类纤维与再生纤维素纤维混纺织物定量计算更准确。研究发现，在使用甲酸/氯化锌溶液进行化学定量分析时，最适宜的溶解条件为：溶解温度控制在70℃，溶解时间为30min，浴比为1∶100。对于充分丝光的棉纤维，质量修正系数d值应取1.05，未充分丝光的棉纤维及未丝光的棉纤维d取1.03。对于其他丝光程度的棉纤维，应根据丝光度选择合适的d值。59.5%硫酸法定量分析丝光棉/再生纤维素纤维混纺织物时，经剥色可以消除染料的影响，且染色对棉纤维丝光度无影响，一般情况下粘胶纤维可以完全溶解，对于难溶解的再生纤维，可以采用30℃×50min，浴比为1∶100，振荡频率为100次/min的溶解工艺，此时未丝光棉纤维，修正值为1.06；丝光度较低及未充分丝光的棉纤维，修正值为1.08；充分丝光的棉纤维，修正值为1.12。通过对比测试，改进标准中现有的d值和溶解工艺条件，可以提高甲酸/氯化锌法和59.5%硫酸法测试丝光棉/再生纤维素纤维混合织物的结果准确性。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the development of science and technology and the demands for comfort,more and more regenerated cellulose fibers was used in clothing processing byblended with cotton fibers. The blended fabrics are often mercerized to improve theperformance and reduce costs. The type and content of fibers in blended fabrics areimportant parameters. The most commonly quantitative analysis methods formercerized cotton/regenerated cellulose fibers are physical are formic acid/zincchloride method,59.5%sulfuric acid and mixed acid method. The application ofphysical method is subject to certain restrictions, because of time–consuming andinefficiency. Other three methods belong to chemical quantitative method,regenerated cellulose fibers with low degree of polymerization and crystallinity weredissolved, meantimes, cotton fibers with high degree of polymerization andcrystallinity was remained. However, the cotton fiber could be damaged duringdissolving process due to the similar structure with regenerated cellulose fiber.Quality correcting coefficient d was needed to correct the quality of cotton fiberwhich was not dissolved and after dissolved in order to obtain accurate quantitativeresults. Mercerize finishing cause damage for cotton fiber, and its microstructure andphysical and chemical properties changed. Especially the damage of mercerizedcotton increased in the current standards chemicals, while the standard did not makeclear explanation, resulting in inaccurate quantitation.In this paper, the properties of cotton fibers after mercerized and therelationship between the degrees of degradation and mercerized degrees were researched. Consequently seeking out right d to make it more accurate forquantitative analysis of mercerized cotton/regenerated cellulose fibers.The study found that when using formic acid/zinc chloride method, theoptimum conditions was that: the dissolution temperature was at70℃, dissolutiontime was at30min, and the bath ratio was1:100. For fully mercerized cotton fiber,quality correcting coefficient d was1.05. For inadequate mercerized cotton fiber andnot mercerized fiber, d were1.03. For other degree mercerized cotton fibers, itshould select the appropriate d based on mercerized degree. When using59.5%sulfuric acid method, stripping color could eliminate the effects of dyes and dyes hadno effect on the degree of mercerized cotton fiber, recycled fiber can generally becompletely dissolved. In the standard process, rayon could completely dissolve. Forthe insoluble regenerated fiber, it could be used30℃×50min, bath ratio of1:100,and the oscillation frequency of100times/min. For not mercerized cotton fiber, dwas1.06; lower degree of mercerized and not fully mercerized cotton fibers, d was1.08; full mercerized cotton fibers, d was1.12.By comparison test, improving d in the standards and dissolution conditionscould improve accuracy of the results for formic acid/zinc chloride and59.5%sulfuric acid methods.更多还原