【作者】 刘玲；

【导师】 唐俐娟；

【作者基本信息】 中南大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2013， 硕士

【摘要】 凤凰苗族服饰作为非物质文化遗产保护项目之一,它反映了一个民族独有的传统文化及审美文化。以服饰为载体的刺绣纹样造型古朴瑰丽、构成形式丰富、色彩浓郁艳丽、工艺精湛独特,体现了凤凰苗族悠久的历史文化,是苗族文化绚丽的篇章。但在现代服饰冲击下,它正面临着消亡的危险,抢救与保护非物质文化遗产势在必行。本文以历史为线索,实地调研为素材,对凤凰苗族服饰的刺绣纹样进行研究。全文共分为五个章节,按照从理论到实践、宏观到具体的逻辑顺序展开论证。首先,通过前期搜集大量资料,并对凤凰县的禾库镇、三江镇、吉信镇、腊尔山镇进行了数月实地调研、考察及访谈,拍摄了大量的服饰刺绣纹样图片,参观了服饰刺绣纹样作坊,对服饰刺绣纹样的现状有了大致了解,通过实地调研搜集的素材及文献资料对凤凰苗族的历史、服饰款式、刺绣源流加以考证。其次,以历史、民俗、美学等为基础对凤凰苗族服饰刺绣纹样的成因进行了梳理,通过对苗族迁徙、苗族古歌、神话传说、图腾崇拜、宗教仪式、生命礼赞、岁时节令及人生礼仪进行阐释,揭示了凤凰苗族服饰刺绣纹样的成因。再次,从造型、构成、色彩、工艺四个方面进行探究并总结凤凰苗族服饰刺绣纹样的特征,主要从变形与夸张、写实与写意、自由与适形分析其造型特征,以点、线、面的形式梳理其构成特征,从色彩的色相、明度、纯度的对比与渐变研究其色彩特征,以工艺的种类及流程分析其工艺特征。最后,通过对凤凰苗族服饰刺绣纹样价值及传承现状的分析,提出了对凤凰苗族服饰刺绣纹样保护、传承与开发的思考。全文通过对凤凰苗族服饰的刺绣纹样研究,在理论与实践上为后续研究提供参阅资料。更多还原

【Abstract】 As one of the intangible cultural heritage protection projects, the Miao costume reflects the unique traditional culture and aesthetic culture of its nationality, which the embroidery pattern carried by costume with its pristine and magnificent modeling, various constitution, gorgeous color, exquisite and unique technology fully embodies the Miao nationality’s ancient history, which can be served as a brilliant chapter in the Miao culture. However, competing with the power of modern costume, it’s in danger of fading away at the arena. it’s very imperative for us to rescue and protect the intangible cultural heritage.Taking history as a clue, developing with on-the-spot investigation, the embroidery patterns of Fenghuang Miao costume as core study material, the thesis comprises five chapters in all, further digging into its depth from theory to practice, from grand to specific logical sequence. First of all, after several months field investigation, a large number of data has been collected from many typical Miao minority towns as the precious folk art libraries, like Heku town, Sanjiang town, Jixin town and Laershan town, what’s more, a large number of pictures about costume embroidery pattern shot on location, and gather the information by visiting costume embroidery pattern’s workshop for grasping the current state of costume embroidery pattern, finally analyze and verify the collected information and materials by field research. This thesis mainly study the Miao costume embroidery pattern’s background, origin, characteristics based on history, folklore, ethnology and aesthetic through illustrating the Miao nationality’s historic migration, ancient songs, myths and legends, totemism, religious rites, celebration of life, seasons and life etiquette to reveal the origins of the Miao costume embroidery pattern. The Miao costume embroidery pattern has various types, resourceful modeling and gorgeous color. The thesis summaries the characteristics of the embroidery pattern mainly from modeling, constitute, color and technology, the modeling angle mainly studied from deformation and exaggeration, realistic way and freehand brushwork, freedom and conformal; the constitution angle mainly analyzed from point, line and plane; the color angle based on the aspects of contrasting color and gradients; the technology angle chiefly introduced from technology type and process. Finally, the thesis analyzes he Miao costume embroidery pattern’s value and current situation, and then propose some suggestions aiming at the Miao costume embroidery pattern’s protection、inheritance and development.Full text through the study of Fenghuang Miao costume, embroidery patterns, for further research in theory and practice.更多还原