【作者】 刘芳；

【导师】 顾莉琴；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 材料学， 2008， 硕士

【摘要】 天然彩色棉是一种在吐絮时就具有天然色彩的棉花,是科学家在原来野生有色棉基础上,利用现代生物技术培育而成的新品种。目前可被纺织加工的天然彩色棉色彩的基本类型只有棕色、绿色两大系列。由于天然彩色棉天然有色,其产品不需要染色加工,杜绝了因使用染料染色而造成的环境污染,产品因此也不会残留对人类健康有害的化学毒素。天然彩色棉具有独特的“生态”、“绿色”、“环保”品质,其纺织品是21世纪国际绿色纺织品市场上最具发展潜力的产品之一。世界主要产棉大国都在致力于天然彩色棉的研究,我国对天然彩色棉的研究相对较晚,目前对天然彩色棉和染色棉没有很好的科学的鉴别方法。由于天然彩色棉的售价比白棉高,有的企业将普通白色棉花染成接近天然彩色棉的颜色,冒充天然彩色棉。在考虑我国天然彩色棉发展的基础上,我们必须研究天然彩色棉的化学组成、结构和性能,评价天然彩色棉色素的特性,提出科学有效的天然彩色棉与染色棉的鉴别方法。本课题研究了天然彩色棉、普通白棉以及染色棉的化学组成、结构和性能上的异同,研究天然彩色棉色素的反应特性。采用化学分析、元素分析等测试方法研究棉纤维的化学组成;采用红外光谱、X-衍射、固体核磁共振、色质联谱分析等测试方法研究棉纤维的结构;测量几种棉纤维的细度、强度、杨氏模量等,表征纤维品质;有效提取天然彩色棉色素物质,分析、研究天然彩色棉色素物质的特性反应。通过对测试结果的分析,提出了有效的鉴定方法。元素分析结果表明,在不同样品中,N元素含量存在明显差异,可以作为判断棉制品中是否含有天然彩色棉的定性指标;红外光谱结果表明,可以依据2850cm^-1处亚甲基CH₂峰,区分天然绿色棉和普通白棉纤维;固体核磁共振结果表明,可以依据33ppm的化学位移区分天然绿色棉和普通白棉纤维;天然绿色棉色质联谱在保留时间27.7min～29.4min时出现特征峰,可以依据该峰区分天然绿色棉和普通白棉纤维;天然彩色棉及其混纺织物色素提取液随酸碱性变化,颜色发生突变,并且变化过程是可逆的。天然彩色棉色素为黄酮类化合物,可通过黄酮物质特征反应即通过饱和的三氯化铁溶液、1%的碱式醋酸铅、1%的三氯化铝、盐酸-铝粉滴定,观察特征反应来鉴定天然彩色棉。更多还原

【Abstract】 Naturally colored cotton that gets its color at the opening of boll is cultivated form the original wild colored cotton by using modern biotechnology. The only two types of naturally colored cotton used in textiles industry currently are brown cotton and green cotton. Naturally colored cotton needs not to be processed because of its natural born color that can eliminate the environmental pollution caused by using dye, and leave no chemical toxins in its products. Due to its unique "ecology", "green" and "environmental" quality, the naturally colored cotton is one of the most development potential products in international textile market in the 21st century. The world’s major cotton producing countries are committed to the naturally colored cotton research while it is relatively late in China. There haven’t been effective methods to identify naturally colored cotton or dyed cotton. In order to sell at a high price, some companies dyed ordinary white cotton close to the color of naturally colored cotton deliberately to deceived consumers. Considering the development of naturally colored cotton in the future, the structure and properties of the naturally colored cotton should be analyzed and the special reactions of the naturally colored cotton pigment need to be evaluated to propose effective identification methods.The differences between naturally colored cotton and dyed cotton products in chemical composition, morphology, qualities of fibers and the special reactions of the naturally colored cotton pigment were studied. Chemical analysis and elemental analysis testing methods were used to research the chemical components of cotton fibers. Fourier Transform Infrared Raman （FTIR-Raman） spectroscopy, X-ray Diffraction, Cross Polarization Magic Angle Spinning Nuclear Magnetic Resonance （CP/MAS-NMR）, Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry （GC-MS） were used to observe the structure of cotton fibers. Fineness, strength, Young’s modulus of cotton fibers were measured to characterize the qualities of fibers. The naturally colored cotton pigment was effectively extracted in order to research the special reactions of the pigment.The results of these tests showed that the significant difference in content of N elements in Elemental analysis could be a qualitative indicator in judging whether cotton products contain naturally colored cotton. The peak at 2850cm^-1 of IR spectroscopy, the chemical shifts at 33ppm of CP/MAS-NMR and the retention time at 27.7min～29.4min of GC-MS were distinctions between naturally green cotton and ordinary white cotton .The reversible color change of pigment extraction in different pH environment could identify the naturally colored cotton or dyed cotton fibers. The pigment of naturally colored cotton is one kind of flavones, so we could identify the naturally colored cotton by special reactions of flavone.更多还原