【作者】 程龙；

【导师】 蒋高明；

【作者基本信息】 江南大学 ， 纺织工程， 2013， 硕士

【摘要】 在现有的经编技术中，压电陶瓷贾卡提花技术发展迅速，越来越广泛地应用到各种类型的经编机及其产品生产当中。在压电陶瓷贾卡提花技术基础之上，结合先进的单纱选择技术，全新的经编浮纹提花技术应运而生，它的出现使经编贾卡提花技术更趋于完善。目前，国内对经编浮纹提花技术的研究相对较少，在其实际应用中经常受技术瓶颈的制约，鉴于此，本文将从以下几个方面对经编浮纹提花技术及其应用展开研究。本文首先深入探究了经编浮纹提花原理，对贾卡提花系统的工作原理以及作用效果展开了研究，此外，还对单纱选择系统的机构组成、选针原理、以及单纱选择的实现过程进行分析，建立了单纱选择图示模型，详细阐明了单纱选择的具体实现路线。在此基础之上，对浮纹提花织物的编织原理和形成过程进行了深入的探讨，归纳出这类织物在编织原理及织物性能方面的特点与优势。接着本文着重研究了经编浮纹提花系统的关键技术即单纱选择技术，给出了单纱选择的具体技术路线，并对单纱选择系统的主要机构包括选择机构、剪线机构、吸风机构进行了深入研究，在充分掌握各部分机构工作原理的基础之上，根据它们的工作要求和所需实现的功能，进行技术层面的研究和分析，建立主要运动机构的工作特性曲线模型，分析探讨其工作规律，并从中提取出相关技术参数和技术要求，以此作为设计依据，确定相应的实现机构类型，设计出单纱选择系统各部分机构相应装置的具体结构。本文最后对经编浮纹提花织物的组织结构进行了分析，探讨了经编浮纹提花织物基本地组织的结构可能性，研究了衬纬贾卡组织的不同结构，比较了压纱组织与衬纬组织的区别，并探寻出最适合经编浮纹提花织物压纱结构和方式。此外专门对经编浮纹提花工艺进行了研究，提出了贾卡工艺复合的方法，并研究了单纱选择工艺与贾卡工艺的配合关系。以此为基础，对经编浮纹提花织物进行工艺设计，给出了织物设计的工艺路线，提出了利用复合贾卡工艺进行织物设计，并对贾卡颜色进行重新定义后，大大提高了工艺设计的效率，最终将此工艺设计方法应用于产品开发与生产实际。更多还原

【Abstract】 Among the current warp knitting technology, the development of Piezoelectric CeramicJacquard is very rapid and is more and more wildly applied into different kinds of warpknitting machines and its production. In addition, its combination with single-yarn selectionmechanism (EFS) forms a brand new warp knitting broché jacquard technology whichperfects the existing technology. At the moment, since the relevant research is not muchstudied and its practical utilization is usually restricted by technological bottlenecks, thispaper will focus on this new technology and its application.This paper firstly explores the principles of warp knitting broché pattern, the workingtheory of Jacquard system and its effects. Furthermore, this paper analyses both mechanicalconstitution as well as needle-select principles of single yarn select system and itsimplementation procedure of the selection. Thereby, the illustrated single yarn model is builtto clarify its detailed methods of the selection. Based on this analysis, this paper studies theweaving theory and procedures of broché jacquard fabric and thus summarizes itscharacteristics and advantages in weaving theories and fabric’s performance.Second, the text makes a research on the vital technology of warp knitted brochésystem or called single-yarn selection mechanism, provides the specific technology road tosingle-yarn selection mechanism and does the deep researchon the principal organ ofsingle-yarn selection mechanism including selection mechanism、trimming mechanism andsuction institutions. On the base of grasping the working technology of all parts institutionand its working requirements or the functions which is wanted to be realized, make a researchin technology aspect to set up the performance curve model of main movement mechanismand make an analysis on the labor discipline to extract technical parameters and technicalrequirement.Eventually, this paper analyzes the organizational structures and processes of brochéjacquard fabric and discusses its possible organizational structures. Not only have warpknitted weft insertion and its jacquard effects studied, but also have the most suitable yarnstructure for broché jacquard fabric explored. Furthermore, a research on its effects andcorresponding process has also been considered. Therefore, the author aims to design ideasand methods of broché jacquard fabric offering the methods of fabric design, especiallypresenting two different theories, methods as well jacquard fabric applications. As a result, animproved design theory of broché jacquard fabric will be applied into production.更多还原