【作者】 李波；

【导师】 陈出云；

【作者基本信息】 昆明理工大学 ， 中国少数民族艺术， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 花腰彝,系云南特有的族群,隶属于彝族尼苏支系,主要聚居在滇西南的石屏县北部的龙武、龙朋、哨冲镇一带。花腰彝人勤劳、勇敢、智慧并极富文化传统,她们在长期的生产与生活实践中,创造和发展了截然不同于其它彝族支系的服饰形式。花腰彝服饰结构复杂,图案花饰繁多,刺绣工艺精细,色彩鲜艳夺目,其独特的服饰艺术具有极高的研究价值。然而,当今国内外学术界涉及到花腰彝服饰艺术以及将花腰彝传统的服饰元素应用于现代服装设计中的论著却很少,因此对花腰彝服饰语言进行全面详细的研究与开发,是一个很有学术价值和现实意义且相对空白的课题。本论文紧扣花腰彝服饰语言的研究和花腰彝服饰语言在现代服装设计中的应用两个主题,首先,在对花腰彝的聚居地进行多次实地调研的前提下,将调研中所搜集到的图片资料和前人有关花腰彝服饰研究的文献资料进行分析整理,有针对性的从花腰彝服饰的款式、色彩、图案、工艺、配饰五个方面入手,从服装设计的专业角度对花腰彝的服饰特点进行全面深入的研究。其次,将现代服装的时尚审美观和花腰彝服饰的艺术特点进行比较分析,从中寻找出二者的结合点,即从花腰彝服饰中寻找出符合现代时尚审美观的特征元素,归纳出这些服饰语言应用于现代服装设计领域中的可行性法则,在此基础上,运用“形神相似”的设计理念,设计出一系列花腰彝服饰元素应用于现代服装设计中的应用案例,从而对所论内容进行佐证。最后,本论文从花腰彝服饰文化对现代服装设计的启示和意义方面提出了一些自己的看法,并进行了相关论述。本文的研究囊括了服装设计学、民俗学、美学、色彩学等相关学科的理论知识,用逐层深入的研究思路和方法对花腰彝服饰语言的艺术特征进行尽可能系统和全面的研究和论述。本文的研究不仅旨在挖掘花腰彝服饰的艺术精髓,传承与保护这种宝贵的民族资源,更重要的是在对花腰彝族丰富的服饰文化重拾中获得现代服装设计的创作灵感,让这些承载有深厚民族文化底蕴的艺术因子以全新的视觉效果重新走入我们现代人的生活。更多还原

【Abstract】 Huayaoyi,a specific ethnic groups in yunnan,which is belong to the nisu branch of Yi,they live in Longwu,Longpeng,Shaochong around of Shiping county. Huayao Yi is industrious, courageous, intelligent and have rich cultural tradition, they creat and develop the different clothing art form to other branch of the Yi nation during the long life of production and practice. Huayaoyi’s clothing have complex clothing structure, generous pattern, Fine embroidery craft and Bright colors, Its unique clothing art has a very high research value.But, the reserch of today’s academic circles at home and abroad is scarce,which is relele to the art of huayaoyi clothing,and use the traditional dress Element in modern clothing design,so full details of the research and development on Huayayi’s fashion is a relative empty subject,which have great academic value and practical significance.The paper closely two themes,which is Huayaoyi’s fashion language and modern applications of traditional elements.First of all collate the material on picture and previous studies of Huayaoyi’s clothing under the premise of multiple field research, targeted research from five-pronged,which is clothing styles, colors, patterns, crafts and accessories, conduct a comprehensive in-depth study on Huayaoyi’s clothing feature from fashion design and a professional point of view.Secondly, find out the combination of the two-point from a comparative analysis of modern fashion aesthetics and clothing art’s characteristical, equivalent find out these traditional elements which is consistent with the concept of modern fashion aesthetic, Sum up the feasibility of rules on fashion language’s application in the modern fashion design. On this basis,use of a "God-shaped similar to" design concept, design a series of application cases on Huayaoyi clothing elements,which applicat in modern fashion desion.Finally, made a number of own views and make the relevant discussion from inspiration and meaning of Huayaoyi dress culture to modern fashion design.The paper relates to the fashion design, folklore, aesthetics, chromatics and other cross-disciplinary, with the research ideas and methods layer by layer, studies and expounds their ethnic clothing art of Huayaoyi as systematically and comprehensively as possible. The purpose of this study not only to trench the Huayaoyi’s clothing essence, inheritance and protect this precious national resources,but also get inspiration on morden fashion design under the research of Huayaoyi’fashion culture, let these artistic elements of rich national culture into our modern life with the new visual consequent.更多还原