【作者】 黄莉；

【导师】 程隆棣；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 竹节纱是指在纱线结构上出现不同于基纱粗度的纱线。它广泛用于各种服装类，家纺类，装饰类面料。目前国内的竹节纱面料大多数是由于竹节随机结合在布面形成雨点，雨线状。因此本课题旨在通过精确控制竹节的长度、细度来试织“花形面料”，即利用竹节的非随机结合在布面形成花形。首先，本文通过对相同特数的全棉、Modal／棉50／50、Tencel／棉25／75、涤棉65／35进行试纺(设定参数为：锭速3500r／min，捻度65捻／10cm，后区牵伸倍数1.3，竹节倍数分别为2，2.5，基纱特数24tex，竹节长度3cm，基纱长度15cm)，通过实验得出捻回传递和强力变化相对稳定的品种为Modal／棉50／50，于是将它作为本实验的主要研究对象，探索纱线性能。其次，重点研究了竹节纱的捻回传递规律、过渡段长度变化规律以及强力变化规律。通过对不同工艺参数条件下竹节段、基纱段捻度的测试发现，由于捻回传递，竹节处的捻度部分传递到基纱上，导致基纱捻度大于设定值，竹节处捻度小于设定值。根据实验得出了基本参数(竹节倍数、竹节长度等)与捻回传递之间的相互关系，并将竹节纱视为一个三阶阶跃模型，由三段惯性矩分析产生捻回传递现象的原因；此外测出过渡段长度，找出各基本参数与过渡段长度的关系，提出“爬坡效应”概念；由于捻度直接影响到纱线的强力，在实验的基础上，采用二次回归正交设计的方法，找出各基本参数与纱线强力之间的关系，建立回归方程，求出最佳工艺参数。最后，采用最佳的工艺参数试织“花形面料”，即事先在图纸上设计一个花形，由花形规律反推纱线规律，根据纱线规律设计工艺参数，在细纱试验机上试纺纱线，然后用所纺的纱线试织“竹节花形面料”。由于试织“花形面料”时，纬纱移位等因素的存在，试织没有成功，综合考虑各种因素进行了原因分析。通过本课题的研究，发现竹节倍数，设定捻度等因素对竹节纱的捻回传递、过渡段长度、强力有不同程度的影响，以此提出一个全新的花形成型方法，作为传统花形成型方法的一个补充。更多还原

【Abstract】 Slub yarn is a yarn which have the different diameter in yarn structure. It widely used in clothes, home textile, decoration fabric. Now most of slub fabric is formed by slub part combined randomly, so it look like raindrop or rain line. So my subject is focus on through control the length and diameter of slub yarn accurately to make "floriated fabric", which using slub part not randomly linked to form a pattern.First, spinning the same yarn-count yarn using follow material: pure Cotton、Modal/Cotton50/50、Tencel/Cotton65/35、Polyester/Cotton65/35, make them in same condition. we found the material which have relative stabilization of twist transfer and strength is Modal/Cotton50/50, so we choose it to be our main research object to explore the yarn capability.Second, emphasizes research the twist transfer rule, transition length change rule, strength change rule of slub yarn. Under the different technical parameter condition, because of twist transfer, some twist of slub part had transfer to common part, so common part twist is higher than design data, slub part twist is lower than design data. Getting the relationship between the basic parameter and twist transfer, regarding slub yarn as a third part lever, analyses the reason of twist transfer; in addition, testing the length of transition part, find the relationship between it and other basic parameter, put forward a conception of "slope-climbing effect"; because twist affect strength directly, using optimize design to find the relationship between strength and basic parameter. Calculate the best technical parameter.Last, using the best technical to weaving "floriated fabric", which means to design a pattern on paper first, to calculate the yarn rule through pattern rule, than according to yarn rule to design technical parameter, and spinning the yarn which we need, weaving the fabric by the yarn we spinned. when we weaving "floriated fabric", because weft yarn change its former position and other reason, we can’t make a "floriated fabric", synthesize think about all effect element.Through the research of this subject, finding slub rate, design twist and other element had effect the twist transfer, transition length, strength, putting forward a new way to make pattern, which is a supplement to the way of tradition pattern form.更多还原