【作者】 刘珍珍；

【导师】 陈超；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 合体性是消费者购买服装所要考虑的重要因素,合体装是对合体性要求较高的服装种类。具备良好合体性的合体装,既要满足人们穿着服装时对美感的需求,还要满足服装的压力舒适性,面料作为服装的三要素之一对合体装的合体性举足轻重。因此,研究在满足压力舒适的基础上能最大限度体现穿着美感的合体装的最佳合体度与面料性能之间的关系具有重要的意义,可以为合体装的面料选择、生产与制作提供准确的理论指导。本文首先系统归纳了服装合体性的概念内涵,提出用服装合体度来定量的评价合体性,并分析服装合体度的各种表现形式及相应评价指标,指出服装面料性能、人体控制部位的具体尺寸及相应的服装松量、服装的压力舒适性、服装的穿着外观效果与合体度的相关关系,从而建立了一个相对完整的服装合体性评价体系,确立了计算服装合体度的一般模型。其次,针对本文的研究对象——合体装,通过面料性能测试实验结果计算了与服装合体性比较相关的9种性能指标的平均值、上平均值及下平均值、画出各面料的性能指纹图,分析各面料的性能特点,并选择具有代表性的20种面料按两套样板制作出40件合体装;通过服装试穿实验综合评价了合体装的压力舒适性及合体装的穿着外观效果——服装合身性,为每位着装者选出了三件合身性最好的服装,并求出了着装者与相应合身服装间的绝对松量值;通过服装压力客观测试与主观评价实验得到40件服装各测试状态下各测试点处的压力值、整体压力舒适性分值,比较服装压力主、客观测试结果,归纳服装整体压力舒适性与各测试点处压力的关系;并在以上实验与分析的基础上,得出合体装的最佳合体度,计算出了最佳合体度服装衣身及衣袖控制部位的松量值与相应面料的性能之间的关系。最后,根据服装合体度的一般模型,在上述研究的基础上,采用回归分析法建立了合体装的最佳合体度的计算公式,确立了其与面料性能之间的关系。本文的研究成果可应用于合体装合体性的评价、合体装面料的选择、电子商务等,具有重要意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 Clothing fitness is an important consideration to consumers, and fitted garment is a kind of garments that are very strict with it. For a well-Fitted suit, it is not only necessary to keep the consumer in shape, to meet people’s requirements for beauty, but also to have good pressure comfort. Fabric, as one of the three basic elements of garment, plays an important part in clothing fitness. Therefore, it is significant to study the relationship between the best fit and fabric properties of fitted suits, and the result not only can theoretically direct its manufacturing and production, but also provide direct guidance to consumers to buy the most suitable suit.First, on the basis of summarizing the definition and connotation of clothing fitness systematically, the fit of clothing was proposed to evaluate clothing fitness quantitatively, different forms and the corresponding evaluation indexes of it were analyzed, and factors that were relative with it as fabric properties, controlling circumference sizes and the corresponding eases, clothing pressure comfort, and the wearing looks were pointed out. And thus, a clothing fitness evaluation system was established, and a model to calculate the fit of Clothing was obtained.Second, for fitted garments, 9 kinds of properties of fabrics were relatively related to the fit of garments, the value of which were obtained through KES test, their fingerprint pictures of them had been drew, the characteristics were analyzed, and 20 kinds of fabrics were selected as representatives. With these fabrics, 40 women suits were made by 2 patterns. Through fitting experiments, the pressure comforts integrated with the wearing shape of these 40 garments were synthetically evaluated, 3 best-fitting garments for each trier were selected, and the absolute eases between the trier and hers corresponding garments were calculated. Through the objective and subjective measurements of garments’pressure, the pressure values of each test points and the overall pressure comfort scores for all garments under different conditions were obtained, the results of objective measurement and subjective evaluation were compared, and the relationship between the pressure values of each test points and the overall pressure comfort scores was summarized. Basing on the above experiments and analysis, the best fit for fitted garments had been achieved and relationship between eases and properties of the corresponding fabrics was calculated.Finally, according to the model to calculate the fit of garments, the formula for calculating the best fit of fitted garments was established by regression analytical method, and the relationship between the best fit and fabric properties of fitted garments was achieved.This study is of great significance, and the results of which can be applied to the fitness evaluation, fabric selection and Electronic Commerce.更多还原