【作者】 荆妙蕾；

【导师】 王建坤；

【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 各种新型纤维作为当今纺织领域的重要材料,应用于各种风格和用途的纺织品设计中。再生纤维原料来源广泛,纤维本身具有许多优良特性,具有广阔的市场发展前景。再生蛋白质纤维在国内外均有报道,但由于使用原料的局限,纤维性能及生产工艺难以尽如人意,价格也较高。本课题采用的再生蛋白纤维是利用再生蛋白原液与粘胶原液共混纺丝制得,再进行切段得到棉型再生蛋白纤维,其性能良好,在服用面料设计中具有较高的利用价值。课题的研究步骤为:首先从研究再生蛋白纤维的性能入手,对纤维进行纺纱试验,在实验室棉纺设备上纺制了八种不同混比的再生蛋白纤维与棉纤维混纺纱,并分析了各种混纺比纱线的再生蛋白纤维的可纺性和成纱质量特征,测试结果表明了不同混纺比的再生蛋白纤维/棉混纺纱线的性能:再生蛋白纤维/棉混比控制在60/40其纱线的各项性能较优,为准确设计再生蛋白纤维在混纺纱线中的混纺比例提供了理论依据。然后,根据原料多元化的产品开发趋势,针对不同混纺比的再生蛋白混纺纱与涤/棉纱、毛/涤纱交织,采用平纹组织,开发出休闲风格的交织产品。对16种样品在实验室小样织机上进行织造实验,并对小样的服用性能进行测试,测试指标包括:耐磨性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、刚柔性、透气性。分析再生蛋白纤维含量对面料风格及服用性能的影响,在织物的各单项性能与混纺比之间建立了回归模型。经过对测试数据的分析表明:交织物的耐磨性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、刚柔性、透气性与再生蛋白纤维含量之间存在显著的相关关系,通过控制纬纱混纺比,可以得到不同服用性能的交织物。而再生蛋白纤维/棉混纺比控制在60/40左右,织物的各项性能都较优。课题的测试结果对实际生产具有重要的指导意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 As important material of present textile territory, different new type fibre is applied in the textile design of different style and use. The regeneration textile fiber raw material origin is widespread, the fiber itself has many fine characteristics, has the broad market development prospect. The regenerated protein fiber is reported in internal and external, but due to the limit of material, the fibre characteristic and produce technology is not attain to perfection, and its price is high. The regenerated protein fiber of this task used is made of polyblending by the viscose dope and the regenerated protein dope, then gets cotton-type regenerated protein fibre by cutting off it. Its property is very well, and it has very higher utility value in the clothing fabric design.The procedure of this paper is given below: First, with the properties of regenerated protein fabric ,by spinning experiments of fibre ,eight sorts of regenerated protein fiber/ cotton blending yarns are prepared with different blending ratio ,and analyses the spinnability of regenerated protein fabric and yarn forming quality characteristic, research result indicates the yarn property of different blending ratio : regenerated protein fabric/cotton blending ratio controls at 60/40, the yarn various functions are more excellent, provides the theoretical basis for accurate designed blending ratio in the blend yarn. Second, by the development tendency of material diversify, using different blending ratio regenerated protein fiber/ cotton blended yarn interweaves with polyester/cotton and wool/polyester blended yarns, plain texture is adopted, designs the cotton style mixture fabric. By test weaving of 16 sorts of sample in laboratory hand sample weaving machine, carry on the wearing characteristics measurement of sample, test target is abrasion resistance, crease recovery property, draping property, bending rigidity, air permeability .Analyses the influence of regenerated protein fiber content on the fabric style and wearing characteristics, regression mode is established based on the relations between each item of wearing characteristic and blending ratio. Analysis of measured data indicates that between the regenerated protein fiber content and abrasion resistance, crease recovery property, draping property, bending rigidity, air permeability of mixture fabric have remarkable correlation, and regenerated protein fiber/ cotton blending ratio controls at 60/40, the fabric functions are more excellent. The test result has the important guiding sense to the actual production.更多还原