【作者】 马朔；

【导师】 顾肇文；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 本课题针对黄麻棉针织物柔软整理问题进行探讨和研究，利用生物化学法和化学柔软剂整理相结合的方法对织物进行超级柔软整理，从而改善黄麻棉针织物的柔软性，减轻织物的刺痒感。现有的化学方法和生物酶的方法都各有弊端，但将两者结合起来，就可以发挥化学方法的强除杂和生物酶方法的温和高效，使其在达到整理效果的同时，降低整理后黄麻棉针织物强度的损失和对其他服用性能指标的影响。在实验中，首次对织物在针织结构上进行二次化学脱胶实验，从而证明织物在针织结构上进行柔软整理的可能性。课题主要对二次脱胶的工艺参数：碱用量，处理温度，处理时间及处理浴比进行正交设计，从而得到该工艺的最佳使用条件，即碱浓度：15g/l；处理时间：2h；处理浴比：1∶40；处理温度：100℃，整理后的织物获得了比较满意的整理效果。证明黄麻棉针织物二次脱胶工艺对改善织物的柔软性是有效的，从而为织物后续的超级柔软整理工艺奠定了基础。之后，又分别对实验中采用的精练酶和纤维素酶的基本工艺参数：酶用量，处理温度，pH值，处理时间等进行实验研究，从中得出两种酶的最佳使用条件，即301L精练酶用量：3％；处理时间：30min；处理浴比：1∶40；处理温度：50℃；纤维素酶L用量：2.5％；处理温度：50℃；处理时间：30min。通过实验，证明了生物酶对织物的处理是有效的，但是与化学方法相比，处理效果较温和，特别在对织物中木质素的去除方面，效果较弱。所以一定要结合化学的方法进行织物整理。利用前面的实验基础，课题对未处理坯布和经不同方案处理后的织物进行服用性能的比较，并由此确定了以服用性能为主要评价指标的黄麻棉针织物的优化柔软整理工艺。另外，本课题是通过对黄麻棉针织物进行生化柔软整理，进而达到减轻织物刺痒感的目的，因此在经过整理之后，刺痒感就作为评价和衡量产品档次的一项重要指标。本课题研究了一套织物刺痒感的评价方法，采用模糊数学的客观评定方法，把反映织物刺痒感的机械物理性能作为评价指标，建立评定模型，并对经过不同整理的织物的各项机械物理指标进行测量，利用模型对所得的测量数据进行计算，从而求得织物的刺痒感值，并由此确定了各影响因素的重要性大小。最后结合各方案织物的刺痒感指标确定了最终黄麻棉针织物的优化柔软整理工艺。更多还原

【Abstract】 This study is mainly about the softness finishing on the jute/cotton knitting fabrics. In this paper, the super softness finishing method is used, which includes the biochemical method as well as the chemical softener to improve the softness and prickle sense of the jute/cotton knitting fabrics. The chemical and enzyme methods have limitation respectively, but the combination of the two ways can make good use of the excellent removing of the chemical method with the soft and efficient of the enzyme methods. By this way, when the good effect of the fabrics finishing is gained, the strength and other properities of the fabrics are also kept in some way.According to the experiment, the degumming on the fabrics of knitting structure is first introduced, which is to prove the feasibility of the softness on the knitting structure. In this process, the orthogonal method is used to analyze the four factors mainly affecting the process such as the concentration of NaOH, time, temperature and liquid bath ratio. The best process parameters are as follows : the concentration of NaOH : 15g/1; time: 2hours; the liquid bath ratio: 1:40; the temperature: 100°C. The properties of fabrics after the degumming process show the possibility of softening the jute/cotton knitting fabrics for underclothes by such pretreatment.In the same way, the best parameters of the scourzyme(?)301L and cellusoft(?) L can also be gained. The parameters of scourzyme are as follows: the scourzyme(?)301L : 3%; time: 30minutes; the liquid bath ratio: 1:40; the temperature: 50°C; and the cellusoft(?)L are: the cellusoft: 2.5%; the temperature: 50°C; time: 30 minutes. The properties of fabrics after the enzyme process show that the enzymes are effective on the finishing of the knitting fabrics, but comparing with the chemical methods, the enzyme methods are too soft to remove the lignin especially. So it needs to combine with the chemical method on the fabrics finishing.After all the preparations, according to different super soft finishing methods on the fabrics and the properties of the finished fabrics, the optimum super soft process is gained.When the soft finishing of the jute/cotton knitting fabrics is finished, its prickle sense is one important index to evaluate and measure the fabric’s quality, but the prickle evalution by means of the fuzzing mathematics is first introduced. It can avoid subjective influences and gain the index about the prickle sense by some important physics properties which are mainly influenced the prickle sense of the fabrics, and also gain the importance of each parameter so that to get the optimum finishing process ,which is based on the prickle sense and the properties of the jute/cotton knitting fabrics both.更多还原