【作者】 宋燕菲；

【导师】 赵俐；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 PTT是近几年开发的一种新型聚酯，它兼有尼龙的弹性及回弹性和涤纶的化学稳定性；好的常压染色性；同时具备对紫外线、臭氧及氧化氮等较好的着色性；吸水性低，易干；手感柔软；好的防污性能等，在纺织应用上具有极大的发展空间。特别是环保型的PDO单体生产工艺被研究出来后，让PTT纤维更符合二十一世纪对绿色环保的发展要求。PTT／PET双组分纤维是在PTT发展的基础上经过特殊的纺丝工艺研制生产的。论文实验中应用的双组分长丝是PTT、PET按50／50的并列复合纺丝。由于同一截面上并存两种纤维成分，并且其各自的热收缩性不同，就使纤维潜伏一种自卷曲能力，在进行热处理或后整理时便呈现出来。这种自身的特殊结构，使PTT／PET双组分长丝不仅拥有PTT的优良性能，还具有更加优良的弹性性能，可以与弹性纤维媲美，同时省去了目前弹性织物常采用的氨纶包芯纱、包缠纱所需要的包纱处理工艺，而且染色性能优于氨纶。针织全成型服装是目前流行的热点，它的应用主要包括内衣、健身操服和部分的泳装等。目前市面上所能看到的内衣、健身操服原料多为天然纤维，锦纶及一些新型纤维，需要借助氨纶的加入来提高织物的弹性。本课题主要利用PTT／PET双组分、锦纶／氨纶包芯纱、PTT、锦纶等长丝为原料，在圣东尼SM8系列的TOP2上采用添纱组织编织5种不同的织物，并对其进行了相应的染色和后整理。性能实验主要包括两大部分：一是对几种长丝性能的测试，主要包括拉伸断裂、定伸长回复及沸水收缩率等，分析原料间性能的差别，同时为织物性能的比较提供依据；二是对五种织物进行各方面的服用性能测试，包括热湿舒适性测试、尺寸稳定性测试、色牢度测试以及织物风格方面的测试等。通过比较发现，以PTT为面纱、双组分为地纱编织的织物在透气、透湿、保暖、弹性、尺寸稳定性、色牢度等很多方面都优于锦纶和锦纶包纱所织成的织物。但是，课题中应用的双组分长丝也存在一些不足之处，由于在PTT的基础上添加了PET及纺丝上的原因，使得经过染整处理后的织物手感方面等性能变差，为此采用了不同的柔软剂进行整理，以期能改善双组分的不足，并获得了一定的效果。最后，借用模糊决策和模糊聚类分析这些数学方法，对织物总的服用性能进行了综合评价，得出了含有PTT、双组分的织物要优于锦纶织物这一结论，很好的支持了开题前的设想。本课题是以实践应用为基础展开的，希望对以后的研究和实际生产有一定借鉴作用。更多还原

【Abstract】 As a new variety of polyester, PTT (Polytrimethylene Terephthalate) has the ability of PA’s good extensibility, PET’s stability and other unique properties. PTT can be dyed in normal pressure, and it is easy to keep the color even if in the condition of ultraviolet, zone and nitrogen oxide. It feel supple and it has a good antifouling performance. The PTT fabric can dry easily because of the low bibulous ability. Now PDO monomer can be made by nature material which satisfied the development request of green environmental protection in 21st century. All in all, PTT will have wide applications on textiles.The PTT/PET bi-component was spun by special spinning craft in which PET and PTT are paratactic in the proportion of 50: 50. Different polyester has different thermal contractibility, which made self-curl in the same section after being heated (hot water or air). Due to this kind structure, bi-component filament has better elasticity besides the good properties of PTT. Compared to Spandex core-spun yarn or fascinated yarn, PTT/PET bi-component filament saves the procedure and have the better dyeing performance.Knitting seamlesswear is popular with people in recent years, including underwear, the costume for body mechanics or swimming, etc. The materials of these fabric usually adopt nature fiber like cotton, PA and some other new fiber (like Coolmax, Tencel), also with Spandex for high elasticity.In this paper, we got five different fabrics of plated stitch by knitting on SM8 TOP2 of Santoni with PTT/PET bi-component, PTT, PA and corn-spun yarn. And then the fabrics are washed, dyed and soft finished.There are two main parts in the experiment. One is the testing of filament, including breaking strength, breaking elongation, elasticity and the boiled shrinkage rate. By these we can find the difference among these materials and supply basis for the performance of fabrics. The other is the testing of fabrics, including thermohydro comfort, appearance retention, color fastness and so on. The results show that the fabric with PTT and bi-component is better than the fabric with PA on air permeability, water vapour transmission, heat insulating ability, elasticity, stability, color fastness, etc.The fabric of bi-component also has some disadvantages, such as the boardy feel. The reason is concerned with both the PET component and the spinning spec. We improve some properties of the fabrics by using different kinds of softener.In the end, the properties of these five fabrics were estimated by the methods of Fuzzy Decision Making and Fuzzy Clustering. And the result is that under the lower extension request the fabric with PTT and bi-component is perfect in the application field of seamless wear.This paper based on practice, and has some meaning for production and further research.更多还原