【作者】 贾娟；

【导师】 王革辉；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2006， 硕士

【摘要】 本论文通过对连身文胸用面料性能的客观测试和对服装进行穿着试验,研究了连身文胸的湿舒适性。研究内容包括以下4部分: 第一部分,分析了女性内衣市场的发展现状,并对国内外关于女性内衣的研究文献进行了查阅和综述。 第二部分,概述了服装舒适性的有关概念和服装湿舒适性的机理,并对国内外有关服装湿舒适性的研究文献进行了查阅和综述。 第三部分,面料的性能测试与分析。选择了15种工业化生产中常用的商品化的连身文胸针织面料,测定了这些面料的结构参数,包括织物的厚度、单位面积重量、线圈密度等,另外还测定了面料的透湿性能、透气性能、芯吸效应和放湿干燥性能等与服装的湿舒适性有关的性能。并且运用多种统计数学的方法对实验结果进行了分析。通过对实验结果的相关分析,在α=0.01的显著性水平下,面料透气量与面料总密度密切负相关,面料透气量与面料的平方米克重和厚度有一定的负相关关系。透气量与放湿干燥率之间也有很强的相关性。通过对试验结果的方差分析发现,在α=0.05显著性水平下,定型纱与面料的叠加没有对透湿性能造成显著影响,而泡棉与面料的叠加却使透湿性能显著降低。通过聚类分析发现,本实验所用的15种面料,在湿舒适性能方面大体可以分为3类:其中,1#、2#为一类,芯吸更多还原

【Abstract】 By carrying out instrumental tests on the fabric properties and subjective wear trials, the wet comfort of women’s corsets was studied in this dissertation. The study includes four parts.In part 1, the present state of female underwear market was discussed and the literatures relevant to underwear were reviewed.In part 2, the concepts relevant to clothing comfort and the mechanism of clothing wet comfort were summarized. The literatures on fabric and clothing wet comfort were reviewed.In part 3, the properties of the fabrics commercially used in production of women’s corsets were tested instrumentally and the results were analyzed. Totally fifteen commercially available fabrics were chosen. The fabric structure parameters such as thickness, weight per unit area and fabric cover factor were tested. The fabric properties such as moisture transfer property, air permeability and wicking effect, which are relevant to wet comfort, were tested. The results were analyzed using several statistical methods. By carrying out correlation analysis, it was found that, at the significance level α =0.01 there was a significantnegative correlation between the fabric permeability and fabric cover factor. It was also found that there was a negative correlation between the fabric permeability and the weight per unit area and fabric thickness, respectively. Besides, there was a strong correlation between the fabric air permeability and drying rate. The results of ANOVA analysis showed that there was no notable difference between the moisture transfer property of the fabric and the composite of fabric and gauze, while the composite with the sponge greatly hindered the moisture transfer property. By carrying out cluster analysis, it was found that the 15 fabrics can be divided into 3 groups, fabrics 1 and 2 were in the same group, having high wicking effect and poor air permeability and drying rate;fabrics 6 and 7 were in the same group, having good air permeability and drying rate, and the other fabrics were in another group.In part 4, wear trials were carried out and the results were analyzed. Five fabrics were chosen from the above fifteen fabrics and were made into corsets, which had same style and same size. Wear trials were carried out at the environmental conditions 25°C,65%RH and the wind velocity less than 0.1 m/s and the subjects were at rest and running, respectively. It was found that the wet comfort of the corsets reduced after running, it mainly because the mugginess and stickiness of the corsets increased after running. Corsets 4 and 5 generally showed good wet comfort. This is accordant with the instrumental tests results of the fabrics. The resultsof ANOVA analysis showed that there were significant differences among the wet comfort of the corsets through the resting and running periods, while the significance of the differences of the softness, mugginess and stickiness among the corsets varied with time through the resting and running periods. It could be concluded that the fabric choice had an influence on the corset wet comfort and that the corset wet comfort was also influenced by human’s activity level.更多还原