【作者】 梁燕；

【导师】 刘晓刚；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2005， 硕士

【摘要】 本文的研究对象为“棉线割花绣”,它是属于“鲁绣”范畴的一种民间刺绣工艺。它在工艺上具有很大的独特性,正是这种其它刺绣工艺所不具备的特点构成了“棉线割花绣”的独特价值因素。但就目前资料记载而言,关于“棉线割花绣”的相关资料和文字记录却非常少。“棉线割花绣”经过了发展、繁荣的历史时期,却不可避免地面临着即将消亡的现实状况。所以,如何对“棉线割花绣”这种传统民间刺绣工艺进行系统的记录、整理和理论研究,并对其未来的发展作出科学预测就显得非常重要了,这也是本文研究的目的。希望通过本篇文章的研究,能引起更多人对“棉线割花绣”的关注,从而达到对它保护与发展的目的。 本文对“棉线割花绣"的研究主要采用资料文献的查询和实地调研相结合的方法,并结合实物的具体制作,对其应用于现代服装设计中的可行性进行分析。本文的研究内容主要包括:一、对“棉线割花绣”本身的研究,结合相关的历史实物资料和文献资料,研究它的历史发展和形态特点等;二、结合刺绣实物的制作,对“棉线割花绣”应用于现代服装设计的可行性进行分析,这是对“棉线割花绣”未来发展的预测,也是从另一角度对它的保护和传承。 通过对以上内容的分析和研究得出以下结论: (1)“纳绣”与“割花”是“棉线割花绣”区别于其它刺绣工艺最主要的两个构成因素,这也是“棉线割花绣”工艺特点中的核心和本质部分。只要通过一次“纳绣”的更多还原

【Abstract】 The research object in this thesis is The Cotton Threads Cutting Embroidery (CTCE), which is one kind of the traditional folk embroidery. It belongs to Lu Embroidery. It’s craft is very unique, which the others have not this kind of characteristics. But the historical records about CTCE are very few at present. Today CTCE is facing the status that would be extinct after developing and prosperous historical period. It is urgent and advisable that we should carry on systematic records, arrangement and theoretical research to protect CTCE. It is necessary that we found the way to develop CTCE in the future. I also hope it can play a certain role to protect it.The method of studying about CTCE is inquiring about historical materials and investigating some handicraftsman in that place. To analyze the feasibility of CTCE in modern fashion design, some sample embroideries was made in practice by myself. The research includes: First, combining the relevant historical materials and embroidery samples to research on CTCE, including the historical development and it’s own characteristic; Second, combining the embroidered samples, to analyze the feasibility of CTCE to be used in modern fashion design and how to use.The conclusions are that: (1) the main differences between CTCE and other Embroideries are Na stitch craft and Cutting. Those are also the unique characteristic and essential part of CTCE. It can get two pieces of symmetrical embroidered square and self-same ones only by one embroidering on the materials because of the Cutting craft. (2) The range of using CTCE is determined by its characteristic, which is mainly applied to articles with symmetrical nature. The unification of practicability and aesthetic determines it was used in daily life. (3) The producers and creators of CTCE are common people. It was developed by exchanging and learning between handicraftsman and handed down from age to age in the past years. (4) The existence of CTCE is not merely embroiders but the forms of expression and carriers of the folk-custom and folk psychology, it has reflected people’s aesthetic standards and psychological needs. (5) Relationship between modern fashion design and CTCE is that Only if the materials of modern fashion design are suitable for the CTCE, can be CTCE applied to the modern fashion design. (6) The appearance of CTCE is influenced by materials mainly, it is the key that the material factor determines whether it could be applied to the modern fashion design. So long as adjusting the materials and breaking the limitation of traditional cotton fabric as the embroidering ground and cotton threads as the only one, CTCE could be suitable to the modern fashion design.更多还原