哈尼族女性传统服饰及其符号象征

【作者】 白永芳；

【导师】 毕桪；

【作者基本信息】 中央民族大学 ， 民俗学， 2005， 硕士

【摘要】 本文以哈尼族女性传统服饰为研究对象,在田野作业和文献资料的基础上,运用符号学的理论知识从服饰款型、色彩、佩饰、装饰图案以及服饰制作与更换五个方面剖析各服饰要素的文化象征,并进一步探讨这一符号系统的建构及在民族文化阐释中的意义。 正文包括绪论、五个章节以及结论。 绪论主要交代了论文的研究背景、研究现状以及研究方法。 第一章,介绍了哈尼族女性传统服饰的款型概况,并以奕车、爱尼、碧约三个支系为例,探析了服饰款型中负载的文化信息——或是民族信仰的物化,或是民族神话、传说的转述,或是先祖战争、迁徙、开山造田艰难历史的遗痕,或是民族生存环境与社会结构的摹形。 第二章,介绍了哈尼族女性传统服饰的色彩概况——崇黑、敬红、尚白,并分析服色观念的产生及衍变,进而论述其文化象征意义——黑是人类避开鬼魂纠缠、躲避恶人追击的保护色;红是天界、神灵的象征,超然于人世又降灵赐福于人间;白则记录了哈尼人对和平的永恒追求。 第三章,介绍了哈尼族女性传统服饰的佩饰概况,集中剖析了意蕴丰富的银饰、鱼饰和羽饰。图腾观念在哈尼族女性的佩饰中留下深深印记;地域环境包括梯田农耕的生产方式在其中留下痕迹;社会群体长期形成的审美标志、价值判断、礼仪规范不知不觉中凝聚其间。 第四章,介绍了哈尼族女性传统服饰中的装饰图案,并揭示了其中蕴含的文化意义。从开天辟地的神话到万物有灵的信仰,从个人私情到民族历史,均有表述。其中,经典“阿博”和送葬头饰“吴芭”更是对民族文化的精彩阐释。 第五章,介绍了哈尼族女性传统服饰的制作、更换以及流动于其中的象征语言。女性服饰的制作与更换的过程中,往往以约定俗成的方式,无声地传达着丰富、复杂的信息。尤其是围绕女性人生礼仪的换装,实质是哈尼族传统社会对女性仪礼规范的物化,以此维持民族社会生活、文化结构乃至婚姻制度的稳固。 结论阐述了本文的主要见解,即哈尼族女性传统服饰是一个极富象征意义的符号系统,在民族文化阐释中具有重要意义。主要剖析了这一符号系统的构建及其主要特点,进而阐述了其文化阐释功能的实现方式。 本文是对哈尼族女性传统服饰文化的一次整合性研究,有助于对哈尼族服饰及文化形成整体认识。从文化阐释的角度进行探讨,有助于认识其服饰符号系统的构成及其独有文化价值。此外,传统文化必然安与时俱进,本义的研究旨在促进哈尼人对自己文化的认识,进l(lJ增强民族自信心,最终提高民族文化的自我传习、保护和发展能力。 关键词哈尼族,女性,传统服饰,符号象征,文化阐释更多还原

【Abstract】 This paper takes Hani women’s traditional dress and personal adornment as the object of study. According to literature and fieldwork material, with the symbolic theory, it probes into the cultural meaning, mainly including the dress and adornment’s style, color, ornament worn as a pendant, designs of the dress and adornment, the procedure of the dress’ making and clothes-changing. Furthermore, it discusses the significance of this symbolic system in cultural interpretation of Hani nationality.The body part consists of forward, five chapters and the conclusion.The forward mainly introduces the study background, the current research situation of this issue and research methods this paper used.Chapter One gives the general picture of Hani women’s traditional dress and personal adornment. Taking the three branches Yiche, Aini, Biyue as examples, it probes into the cultural information implied in the dress and personal adornment.Chapter Two introduces the color of Hani women’s traditional dress and personal adornment. Black, red and white are the favorite colors of Hani women. This chapter analyses how this idea comes out and how it changes with times in order to explore the cultural and symbolic meaning of the color.Chapter Three introduces Hani women’s ornament worn as a pendant, especially introduces the silver adornment, fish designs and feather adornment enriched with varied meanings.Chapter Four introduces the designs of Hani women’s traditional dress and personal adornment and reveals their cultural meaning. The meaning refers to various aspects of Hani people, from mythology about the creation of heaven and earth to animism, from personal emotions to this nationality’s history.Chapter Five introduces procedures of the dress-making, clothes-changing and symbolic meaning of Hani women’s traditional dress and personal adornment.The conclusion part makes a summary and stresses that Hani women’s traditional dress and personal adornment is a symbolic system implied various meanings and play an important role when we try to interpret Hani nationality’s culture.In a word, this paper is the synthetical study of Hani women’s traditional dress and adornment. It will help us have the concept of viewing the situation as a whole. On the angle of cultural interpretation, it will help us better understand the symbolic system of Hani women’s dress and personal adornment and their unique cultural significance.更多还原