【作者】 喻芳；

【导师】 王建萍；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2004， 硕士

【摘要】 服装成衣业的发展，信息技术、数字化技术在服装行业中的应用，服装缝制设备的优化以及消费者需求的提高使客户化成衣成为非常具有诱惑力的经营方式。 传统的服装量身定制的模式存在着许多局限性，形不成规模效益，影响了成衣定制业务向高层次和大规模的发展。为了实现成衣定制的工业自动化生产，突破传统量身定制模式的局限性，必须在该领域引进高新技术，这些技术包括服装CAD的智能打板和现代信息技术。 课题以智能技术的功能实现为研究目标，将信息技术与数字化引入客户化成衣定制生产，借助智能化的实现方式之一—专家系统理论，探讨研究服装样片设计系统的智能化方案和工具。论文共分七个部分：第一章概述课题的研究思路和研究内容；第二章主要讲解服装CAD二次开发的理论基础以及开发过程中所用到的关键技术；第三章分析现阶段客户化成衣定制的特点，以及服装CAD技术的发展对其影响；第四章就定制生产的初期工作——客户数据的获取与归档进行研究，将测体数据归并为生产号型，得到服装规格和体型分类；第五章采用基于专家系统和知识工程的服装CAD二次开发技术构造智能化模块，自动生成结合了体型和测体信息的合体服装样板，同时提供款式样板库辅助打板；第六章在生成样板的基础上进行特殊体型修正的研究；第七章进行客户化成衣生成系统的设计，程序实现归档和样板生产的功能，同时对两个部分进行整合。 论文以西服企业为研究对象，总结我国定制西服的生产方式，并根据企业的运作流程进行了以下研究：(1)在确定身高、胸围、腰围为基本部位前提下，通过人体体型灰色建模过程，建立人体细部规格与基本部位之间的灰色模型关系，从而可以通过基本部位指标预测细部规格，作为服装规格设计的基础；(2)运用数值分析方法研究人体数据的号型归档问题，采用人工智能方法模糊模式识别中的基于择近原则的模式分类对测体数据进行号型归档，计算各号型的覆盖率，从而确定生产的号型与批量，设计服装生产规格系列，并将结果标准化后传送给样板生成子系统；(3)采用专家系统构造理论，建立以C++程序设计语言为底层技术的系列规则、符号、推理机制、知识库等专家系统构成要素。(4)对西装样板进行研究，对样板的生成过程进行模块化、对象化处理，分解为可灵活调用、交互生成的智能化模块，在服装CAD系统平台上进行二次开发，编程实现模块功能，结合归档子系统的信息自动生成客户化样板。(5)对西装样板进行分类，采集常用款型104例，建成西装样板库。(6)对特殊体型样板的修正问题进行初步探讨，建立特体修正模块，并运用专家系统工具实现功能。(7)利用编程技术和数据库技术建立客户化成衣样板生成系统，并实现系统功能。 通过研究希望达到在原有的成熟样板及控制部位尺寸数据的基础上生成样片，输入需特别调整部位的数值自动生成合体的样板，实现量身定制的成衣化生产。同时运用网络技术中的远程通讯技术完成异地定单的加工，把分散在各地的资源有效组合成一定的经济联盟、最大限度地适应市场的多变性和顾客的多样化需求。 客户化成衣样板技术的深入研究为服装行业的数字化、信息化提供了研究方向，同时，客户化生产与信息技术的结合也提升了整个服装行业的高科技含量和行业效益。更多还原

【Abstract】 The development of the ready-to-made, the adoption of the communication technology and digital technology in the clothing industry, the optimization of the clothing machine and the improvement of the consumer’s demands make the customization clothing production an alluring production mode.To realize the industrialization of the Made-to-measure mode, we must introduce high technology, including intelligence fashion CAD and modern communication technology into this field.The target of this discussion is to the function realization of intelligence technology by the combination of the customization clothing production and the communication technology and digital technology. In virtue of the expert system theory, we discuss the precept and tool of intelligent clothing pattern design system. The thesis is composed of seven parts. The first chapter summarizes the thought and main content of the study. The second chapter explains the theory basis of fashion CAD bis-developent and the key technology in the development. The third chapter analyses the characteristic of customization production in being and the influence fashion CAD has given to. The fourth chapter studies the acquirement and the classification of the client data-the initial stage of the production. The fifth chapter based upon the expert system and knowledge engineering constructs the intelligent model, generates automatically the pattern with bodily form and measure information, and provides style and pattern house as complementarities. The sixth chapter studies the amendment of unusual bodily form pattern. The seventh chapter designs the customization pattern generation system, programs to realize the function of classification and generation, and integrates the two parts.The thesis mainly studies the business suit companies. Summarize the customization production mode of business suit. According to enterprise production course, we dc research as below:(1) Making sure that the sizes of height, chest line and waist line are the basis positions, through setting up Gray Model of human body, find the relation between basis positions and idiographic positions, dope out the idiographic specs from basis specs.(2) Use numeric analysis method to study measure data. Based on least interval principle in AI pattern recognition theory, pigeonhole body data, compute the overlay radio, and sequentially determine the size and batch of each specification that will be used in production. Calculate the garment specifications and design the size series of garment production.(3) Based on expert system structure theory, set up expert system inscape such as rules, expressions, reasoning mechanism and knowledge warehouse. Modularize the creating procedure of the garment pattern.(4) Studying the pattern of business suit, analyzing the creating procedure of pattern to some intelligent modules that can be transferred flexibly and generated interaction. On Arisa Fashion CAD system platform, adopt in C++ programming language to bis-develop and realize the function of the modules. Based on analyses of bodily form and the research of pigeonhole, create the customization pattern automatically.(5) Classify the pattern and style of the business suit, collect 104 kind of styles in common, and set up the pattern warehouse.(6) Primary discuss the amending of the pattern of special bodily form, set up the amending modules of special bodily form, and realize the function by expert system tools.(7) Utilizing the technology of programming and database construct Customization Pattern CreatingSystem and realize the function of the system.Through research I hope to achieve that create customization pattern based on the mature pattern and the size of control positions. Inputting the numerical value of the positions that need to be modified specially, create fitting pattern, so that to realize customization production. At the same time, using long-distance telecommunications technology in network technology, accomplish the process of separate orders. Integr更多还原