【摘要】 为了解决传统彩色牛仔面料生产流程复杂、效率低及污染环境等问题，采用纤维原液着色法制备多色涤纶纤维条，通过双分梳转杯纺技术将其与本白棉纤维进行复合纺纱，纺制出5种颜色、线密度为58.3 tex的涤/棉彩色牛仔纱，并以其作为经纱与白色棉氨包芯纱交织纺制彩色牛仔面料；详述纱线及面料制备过程，根据面料质量指标与测试方法对5种涤/棉彩色牛仔纱面料进行性能测试和外观风格分析。结果表明：基于双分梳转杯纺技术及纤维原液着色法纺制的彩色牛仔纱面料，无须经过浆染一体工序或者套染工序，生产流程简单高效，织物色牢度、强力等特性良好，外观兼具传统牛仔面料粗犷风格，生产成本低且绿色环保。更多还原

【Abstract】 In order to address the issues of complex production processes, low efficiency, and environmental pollution in traditional colored denim fabric manufacturing, the fiber dope dyeing method is employed to prepare multi-colored polyester fiber slivers.Through dual opening rotor spinning technology, these slivers are blended and spun with raw white cotton fibers to produce five colors of polyester/cotton colored denim yarns with linear density of 58.3 tex.These yarns are then used as warp yarns and interwoven with white cotton/spandex core-spun yarns to fabricate colored denim fabrics.The preparation processes of the yarns and fabrics are described in detail.Performance tests and appearance style analyses are conducted on five types of polyester/cotton colored denim yarns fabric samples based on fabric quality indicators and testing methods.The results indicate that the colored denim fabrics produced using dual opening rotor spinning technology and the fiber dope dyeing method do not require sizing-dyeing integrated processes or over dyeing processes.The production process is simplified and made more efficient, and the fabrics exhibit good color fastness, strength, and other properties.Their appearance combines the rugged style of traditional denim fabrics, with low production costs and environmental friendliness.更多还原