【摘要】 为提升苏木色素染色蚕丝织物的紫外线吸收性能，本文采用反应性抗紫外剂对苏木色素进行改性处理，并在不同pH值的染浴中，分别使用改性前后的苏木色素对桑蚕丝织物进行染色，随后测定染色织物的染色性能及抗紫外性能。研究结果表明，当苏木色素与抗紫外剂以近似物质的量比1∶2进行反应时，最佳反应pH值范围为8.0～9.0。在相同pH值的染浴条件下，经改性苏木色素染色的蚕丝织物展现出显著优于改性前的抗紫外性能，其UPF比值处于1.56～2.31。具体而言，在染浴pH值为3.0,且质量分数(对织物质量)分别为4%、8%时，改性苏木色素染色的桑蚕丝电力纺织物的UPF值分别为22.39和27.96;当质量分数为8%时，染色的桑蚕丝双绉的UPF值高达44.94,满足防紫外线产品的相关标准。此外，改性前后的苏木色素染色的桑蚕丝电力纺织物在耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度方面均达到4～5级。更多还原

【Abstract】 In recent years, plant dyes that are biodegradable, renewable and have health benefits have once again become the focus of attention. The research on their application in the textile dyeing and finishing field has become a hot topic. Silk fabrics have a soft feel and are comfortable to wear, and are highly favored by people. In summer, silk fabrics are lightweight and moisture-absorbent, and are commonly used as clothing materials. However, due to the thinness of silk fabrics, their ability to resist UV rays is insufficient. By dyeing silk fabrics with natural dyes modified with reactive UV-blocking agents, their UV resistance can be improved. Since natural dyes have certain health benefits, they can also simultaneously impart certain antibacterial and antioxidant properties to the fabrics. At the same time, by dyeing fabrics with modified natural dyes, the finishing process is reduced, resulting in energy conservation and emission reduction. Sappanwood is the dried core of the plant Caesalpinia sappan L., which belongs to the Leguminosae family. The main chemical components of sappanwood pigment include protosappanin and hematoxylin, both of which contain phenolic hydroxyl functional groups and are relatively soluble in water. Sappanwood pigment belongs to polyphenolic flavonoid compounds. In its molecular structure, the two benzene rings are separated by saturated aliphatic groups, and there are no chromogenic groups within the molecule. Therefore, sappanwood pigment itself does not show color. Through the oxidation process of sappanwood pigment, the two multielectron systems within the molecule will undergo conjugation effects, thereby being able to absorb visible light and exhibit color. It is worth noting that sappanwood pigment has high oxidation sensitivity, and the dissolved oxygen in the solution and the light conditions are sufficient to trigger its oxidation reaction. By dyeing silk fabrics with sappanwood pigment, not only can the fabric be endowed with natural and unique colors, but it can also acquire certain functional characteristics, thereby significantly enhancing the added value of silk fabrics. However, the sappanwood pigment-dyed silk fabrics have limitations in ultraviolet resistance, and it is difficult to meet the requirements for high ultraviolet resistance in practical applications.Based on this, this study uses reactive ultraviolet absorbers, which react chemically with sappanwood pigment under alkaline conditions to generate modified sappanwood pigment. Through this modification process, the ultraviolet light absorption ability of sappanwood pigment can be effectively enhanced, thereby significantly improving the ultraviolet resistance of the dyed silk fabrics. UV-Sun Cel Liq(abbreviated as UV-SCL) is a reactive anionic based on oxaloylbenzene. Under alkaline conditions, it can generate ethylene sulfonyl groups, and through nucleophilic addition reaction, the ethylene sulfonyl groups in UV-SCL can react with the hydroxyl groups of the fiber. Sappanwood pigment is a polyphenolic substance, and under alkaline conditions, it can dissociate to produce hydroxyl oxygen anions, which can react with the ethylene sulfonyl groups in UV-SCL through nucleophilic addition reaction to form an aromatic ether bond, generating modified sappanwood pigment. By dyeing silk fabrics with modified sappanwood pigment, high-end textiles with certain functionality can be prepared, and at the same time, the same bath dyeing and finishing can be achieved, reducing the process flow and saving energy and resources. This study modified the sappanwood pigment with UV-absorbing agent UV-SCL, and investigated the modified sappanwood pigment through ultraviolet absorption spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Different sappanwood pigments before and after modification were used to dye silk fabrics under different pH values, resulting in a series of silk fabric samples with different color characteristics. The color characteristic parameters, dyeing fastness indicators, and ultraviolet absorption performance parameters of the dyed fabrics were systematically measured, and the optimal dyeing process conditions suitable for this dyeing system were comprehensively analyzed and determined.The results show that when the sappanwood pigment and the UV absorber react at a ratio of approximately 1:2, the optimal reaction pH range is 8.0-9.0. Under the same pH value of the dye bath, the silk fabrics dyed with the modified sappanwood pigment exhibit significantly better UV resistance than those before modification, with an UPF ratio ranging from 1.56 to 2.31. At a dye bath pH of 3.0 and owf(fabric weight) of 4% and 8%, the UPF values of the habutai silk dyed with the modified sappanwood pigment are 22.39 and 27.96, respectively. When the owf is 8%, the UPF value of the double crepe silk dyed with the modified sappanwood pigment reaches 44.94, meeting the relevant standards for UV-protective products. In addition, the habutai silk dyed with the sappanwood pigment before and after modification in terms of resistance to washing and friction fastness all reach grades 4-5. The sappanwood pigment itself has pharmacological and physiological functions such as antibacterial, antioxidant, and immunosuppression, which can endow the fabric with certain antibacterial and antioxidant properties. By compounding and dyeing with natural dyes such as shikonin and the modified sappanwood pigment, the antibacterial performance of the fabric can be improved. By modifying different natural dyes with reactive UV absorbers, the color spectrum of the modified natural dyes can be enriched, and the durability of the fabric’s functional properties can be improved.更多还原