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流动的图像:早期时尚传播中的意大利纺织图册

Diffusing Images: Italian Textile Pattern Books in Early Fashion Dissemination

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【作者】 李思慧; 陈芳;

【Author】 Li Sihui;Chen Fang;

【通讯作者】 陈芳;

【机构】 北京服装学院;

【摘要】 欧洲早期时尚传播以宫廷为中心,即由围绕君主周围的王室成员、廷臣、贵族、宗教顾问等核心掌权群体共同构成的权力——文化空间,向其他阶层渗透。服饰在早期时尚传播空间中作为可视化的身份标识,是时尚最初阶段“奢华时尚”的主要表达。16至17世纪,记录织物图案的纺织图册借由蓬勃发展的印刷业在欧洲广泛传播,流动的图像打破了时尚塑造的阶层区隔。其中,意大利艺术家创作的纺织图册颇为流行。解读图册内的历史信息,可揭示早期时尚传播过程中的纺织技术革新、跨行业合作与审美趣味的跨阶层传递。

【Abstract】 In early modern Europe, the royal court served as the focal point of fashion diffusion. The monarch, courtiers, nobility, and religious advisors constituted a power-cultural sphere, from which new fashion trends radiated outward to permeate other social strata. Within this early fashion communication network, clothing functioned as a visible marker of status and stood as the primary expression of "luxury fashion" during its inception. During the 16th and 17th centuries, pattern books documenting textile designs spread widely across Europe, facilitated by the burgeoning print industry. These diffusing images served to dismantle the class distinction traditionally shaped by fashion. Among these, textile pattern books created by Italian artists gained notable popularity. Analyzing the historical information contained in these publications illuminates textile technological innovations, cross-industry collaborations, and the cross-class transmission of aesthetic tastes during the early dissemination of fashion. Artists infused textile designs with their era’s specific artistic and fashion sensibilities, imbuing the material form of fashion dissemination rich cultural significance. The artistic value of these pattern books did not reinforce class barriers; even lower social strata without formal literacy could comprehend and utilize these predominantly visual publications. Prefaces to the works and the pattern designs themselves reflect artists’ conscious consideration of artisanal practitioners in the creative process. Therefore, compared to traditional works of art, the graphic designs and artistic styles of textile pattern books had greater potential to achieve genuine cross-class transmission of visual knowledge.

【基金】 北京服装学院服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目“中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新”(项目编号:NHFZ20250205)的阶段性成果
  • 【文献出处】 艺术设计研究(中英文) ,Art & Design Research(Chinese & English Language) , 编辑部邮箱 ,2025年06期
  • 【分类号】TS106;G206
  • 【下载频次】68
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