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日本《农业全书》中的茜草染工艺研究与实践

Research and practice on madder dyeing technology in Agricultural Encyclopedia of Japan

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【作者】 杨建军崔岩

【Author】 YANG Jianjun;CUI Yan;Academy of Art & Design, Tsinghua University;Dunhuang Costume Culture Research & Creative Design Center, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology;

【机构】 清华大学美术学院北京服装学院敦煌服饰文化研究暨创新设计中心

【摘要】 茜草作为特殊的传统天然染料,在染色文化史上占有重要地位。在研究日本《农业全书》中的茜草染工艺基础上,结合日本《延喜式》中的相关用料配比,通过反复实践,确定茜草色素优化萃取染色工艺为:萃取时间30min,萃取温度90℃,染色时间20 min,染色温度50~70℃,媒染时间20 min,媒染温度为常温,食醋用量为染液量的10%左右。研究认为,茜草染工艺绿色环保,所染丝绸色彩鲜艳、色牢度高,在当代纺织服装、纤维艺术等领域仍然具有广阔的开发应用前景。

【Abstract】 As a special traditional natural dye, madder plays an important role in the history of dyeing cultural. On the basis of studying the dyeing technology of madder in Agricultural Encyclopedia of Japan and combining with the relevant material ratios in Engishiki, through repeated practice, the optimal extraction and dyeing process of madder pigment is as follows: extraction time 30 min, extraction temperature 90 ℃, dyeing time 20 min, dyeing temperature 50-70 ℃, mordant dyeing time 20 min, mordant dyeing temperature room temperature, with vinegar added at approximately 10%(on the mass of dyeing solution). Research suggests that the madder dyeing technology is green and environmentally friendly, and the dyed silk has bright colors and high color fastness. It still has broad development and application prospects in multiple fields such as contemporary textiles and clothing, fiber art and etc.

【关键词】 媒染传统工艺茜草染
【Key words】 mordant dyeingtraditional craftsmanshipmadder dyeing
  • 【文献出处】 染整技术 ,Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal , 编辑部邮箱 ,2025年01期
  • 【分类号】TS193.62
  • 【下载频次】35
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