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采用立体裁剪技术的蟳埔女大裾衫适体结构改良

Fit Structure Improvement of Xunpu Women’s Large-Hem Blouses Using Draping Cutting Technology

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【作者】 章国信张华玲谢劼蔡晓秋

【Author】 ZHANG Guoxin;ZHANG Hualing;XIE Jie;CAI Xiaoqiu;School of New Materials and Shoes & Clothing Engineering;School of Light Industry, Liming Vocational University;

【机构】 黎明职业大学新材料与鞋服工程学院黎明职业大学轻工学院

【摘要】 根据传统蟳埔女大裾衫存在浮余量堆积、穿着不适体等问题,运用女装成衣结构设计理论,采用服装立体裁剪的造型技术,通过分割、收省、转移等结构处理方法,对传统蟳埔女大裾衫进行适体结构改良。改良后的蟳埔女大裾衫设置了肩斜角度,腋下平整利索,无浮余量;前身设置胸省,后身设置肩省,胸上区域适体平整,侧视衣身呈“H”廓形;身围松量调整,前后腰臀处松紧适宜、下摆松量均匀,达到了舒适和美观的穿着效果。

【Abstract】 To address issues such as excessive fabric accumulation and improper fit in traditional Xunpu Women’s large-hem blouses, garment structural design theories and draping techniques are applied. By utilizing structural methods like segmentation, darts, and repositioning, the traditional design is refined for a better fit. The improved version incorporates a shoulder angle adjustment, ensuring a smooth and well-fitted underarm area without excess fabric. The front features bust darts, while the back has shoulder darts, resulting in a snug and smooth upper chest fit with an “H”-shaped silhouette from the side. Additionally, adjustments are made to the garment’s looseness, ensuring appropriate tightness at the waist and hips while maintaining a balanced hem allowance, ultimately achieving comfort and aesthetic appeal.

【基金】 福建省中青年教师教育科研项目“基于立体裁剪技术的蟳埔女上衣创新设计研究”(JAT201313)
  • 【文献出处】 黎明职业大学学报 ,Journal of Liming Vocational University , 编辑部邮箱 ,2025年02期
  • 【分类号】TS941.2
  • 【下载频次】2
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