【摘要】 为研究羊毛纱在经编整经过程中受到的损伤状况，以3种含有羊毛、羊绒和锦纶短纤维的紧密赛络纺纱线为原料，并以整经机为试验平台取样测试并进行研究分析。测试3种羊毛纱线整经前后的力学性能以及毛羽指数等，建立整经实测张力与纱线强力损失及质量损耗关系数学模型，分析并预测整经张力对其性能的影响，采用有限元建模模拟及验证整经张力和分纱筘、KFD纱线张力补偿制动器对羊毛纱的损伤情况。结果表明：3种纱线强力分别为163.9、153.6、95.8 cN,在经过4道分纱筘后分别下降了12.0%、10.7%、8.2%,由于纱线与各道分纱筘摩擦导致已有毛羽脱落与纱线表层纤维被抽拔同时发生，因此纱线毛羽指数无规律变化，但纱线质量下降。根据数学模型得出，当整经张力为20 cN,整经速度为300 m/min、张力辊孔位为第2孔位或在整经速度为400 m/min、张力辊孔位为第1孔位时，纱线质量和强力损失较小。对比有限元建模及测试数据得出当整经张力大于30 cN、伸长大于0.8%时会因毛羽集结、纱线纠缠等问题造成无法整经。对羊毛纱整经及经编顺利生产具有较好的理论参考和现实意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 Objective In order to study the damage of wool yarn in the process of warping for warp knitted fabrics, the study focused on the warping tension and the influence of machine parts on the hairiness index and mechanical properties of wool yarn, using the yarn leasing reed as an example, aiming to understand the damage of wool yarn during warping and provide insights for the utilization of wool yarn.Methods Three types of compact Siro-spun yarns prepared from wool, cashmere, and nylon staple fibers were selected. The warping machine served as the experimental platform for sampling, testing, and analysis. The mechanical properties and hairiness index of the three types of yarns were tested before and after warping. A mathematical model was developed to analyze and predict the influence of warping tension on yarn performance based on the relationship between tension, yarn strength loss, and mass loss. The damage to wool yarn caused by warping tension, reed, and KFD yarn tension compensation brake was simulated and validated using finite element modeling.Results Three types of wool yarn were tested after warping on the warping machine. These included yarn A(70% wool and 30% polyamide, 16.7 tex), yarn B(60% wool, 30% polyamide and 10% cashmere, 16.7 tex), and yarn C(60% wool, 30% polyamide and 10% cashmere, 12.5 tex) which were subjected to tight Siro spinning. The study revealed that the mechanical properties and hairiness index of the yarn were influenced by the friction between the reed of the warping machine and the yarn. Yarns A, B, and C experienced a decrease in strength by 12.0%, 10.7% and 8.2%, respectively. Additionally, due to shedding and the generation of new hairiness during continuous friction with the reed, the hairiness index fluctuated, leading to an overall weight decrease. During the warping process, if the yarn warping tension exceeded 30 cN and the elongation surpassed 0.8%, warping failure could occur due to hairiness aggregation, yarn entanglement and other factors. At the same time, the relationship between yarn strength, mass, and warping tension adhered to asymptotic, Boltzmann, and other mathematical models. Based on the model curve, it was deduced that when the warping tension was 20 cN and the warping speed was 300 m/min, the tension roller hole selection should be the second hole position; or when the warping speed was 400 m/min, the tension roller hole selection should be the first hole position. Under these conditions of warping tension and speed, both warping efficiency and quality could be guaranteed. By establishing the equivalent model of wool yarn, the finite element method was utilized to simulate the warping process and further investigate the damage of wool yarn. The simulation results were compared with the actual scenario to replicate the morphological changes of the yarn during warping and confirm the warping of the yarn under various tension and elongation conditions. This study provided a valuable experimental and theoretical foundation for examining short fiber yarn for warp knitting and exploring yarn damage during the warping process.Conclusion The relationship between mechanical properties and hairiness index was established. According to the mathematical model, when the warping tension was 20 cN and the warping speed was 300 m/min, the tension roller hole selection was the second hole position, or when the warping speed was 400 m/min, the tension roller hole selection was the first hole position. Under these conditions, the weight loss and strength loss were kept minimal. By comparing the finite element modeling with test data, it was deduced that warping would be hindered when the warping tension exceeded 30 cN and the elongation surpassed 0.8% due to hairiness aggregation, yarn entanglement and the like. the like This method allowed for the preliminary screening of warping yarn, offering a theoretical foundation for the warping process.更多还原