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油橄榄叶提取物/光甘草定纳米乳的经皮渗透性能及美白功效评价
Evaluation of Transdermal Penetration Properties and Whitening Efficacy of OLE/GLA Nanoemulsions
【摘要】 采用高压均质技术制备了共载油橄榄叶提取物和光甘草定的纳米乳(OLE/GLA-NEs),研究OLE/GLA-NEs的经皮渗透性能及美白功效。通过皮肤渗透试验,发现将光甘草定包装在纳米乳中,其皮肤吸收和储存量优于游离光甘草定。细胞美白试验结果表明,光甘草定质量浓度为20μg/mL时,OLE/GLA-NEs相较于Free OLE/GLA,酪氨酸酶活性抑制率达到78.51%,黑色素相对含量仅为16.48%,差异具有非常显著性意义(P <0.01)。3D黑色素皮肤模型研究结果表明,OLE/GLA-NEs相较于油橄榄叶提取物和光甘草定的游离活性物(Free OLE/GLA),L*值提升率为6.11%,黑色素含量抑制率为12.90%,差异具有显著性意义(P <0.05)。人体临床试验结果表明,使用含有质量分数5%OLE/GLA-NEs的精华28 d后,志愿者皮肤的光泽度、ITA°值明显增高,皮肤黑色素含量及色斑总面积明显下降,色斑变淡,皮肤白皙有光泽。因此,OLE/GLA-NEs对皮肤有显著的美白功效,作为化妆品美白功效原料具有良好的应用前景。
【Abstract】 Nanoemulsion carriers containing OLE/GLA were prepared by high-pressure homogenization technique, and the transdermal penetration properties and whitening efficacy of OLE/GLA-NEs were investigated. Transdermal permeation studies showed that the nanoemulsions encapsulated OLE/GLA had good skin permeability and skin storage capacity compared with the free component. The results of the cell whitening assay showed that at a concentration of 20 μg/mL of glabridin, the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate of OLE/GLA-NEs reached 78.51%, and the relative content of melanin was only 16.48% compared with free OLE/GLA, and the difference was highly significant(P<0.01). The results of the 3D melanin skin modeling study showed that OLE/GLANEs showed a 6.11% enhancement of L* value and a 12.90% inhibition of melanin content compared with free OLE/GLA, and the difference was significant(P<0.05). The results of clinical trials showed that after 28 days of using the serum containing 5%(in mass fraction) OLE/GLA-NEs, the melanin content and total area of pigmentation of the skin increased significantly, the L* value and ITA° of the skin increased significantly, the pigmentation became lighter, and the skin became fair and radiant. It is shown that the OLE/GLA-NEs have good whitening effect on the skin and have a good application prospect in the whitening cosmetic market.
【Key words】 Olea europea leaf extract; glabridin; nanoemulsion; transdermal penetration; whitening; efficacy;
- 【文献出处】 香料香精化妆品 ,Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics , 编辑部邮箱 ,2024年03期
- 【分类号】TQ658
- 【下载频次】142