【摘要】 针对活性染料传统水相染色工艺会产生大量含有高浓度染料和盐的废水的现状，提出了一种新型废食用油-水两相活性染料染色体系。比较了在油水两相体系与传统水相体系中染色的棉织物在常规服用性能以及织物手感方面的差异。结果表明：传统水相染色棉织物的经纬向毛细高度均稍低于油水染色棉织物的经纬向毛细高度；2种染色织物的极限氧指数相近，约为18%,磨破次数也十分相近，分别为25±2和24±2;传统水相染色棉织物的经纬向缓弹回复角比油水染色棉织物的分别高17%与19%,前者受到外力时有更好的形状回复能力；在综合手感总指数方面，油水染色棉织物的0.58±0.2与传统水相染色棉织物的0.60±0.2相比，差异不大；油水两相溶剂染色体系染色得到的棉织物与传统水相染色体系相比有微小差异，但是大部分性能可达到行业标准。更多还原

【Abstract】 Objective Conventional aqueous phase dyeing produces a large amount of wastewater containing high concentrations of dyes and salts. A new waste cooking oil-water two-phase dyeing system was investigated to prove the effectiveness in cotton dyeing, and the minimal discharge of hydrolyzed dyes, salts and alkali. Method An oil-water two-phase dyeing system and a conventional aqueous dyeing system were adopted to dye cotton fabrics. Wear performances include capillary adsorption, combustion behavior, kubbing resistance, wrinkle-recovery behavior, water vapor permeability, moisture regain, and hand feeling of fabrics dyed in the two systems were studied and compared.Results Wicking heights of two-phase dyed cotton fabric are about 10% and 20% lower than their water dyed counterparts in both warp and weft directions, respectively. A small amount of oil may remain in the fiber interior, causing plug of the capillaries. Continuous burning time of two-phase dyed cotton fabric are slightly shorter than that of aqueous dyed cotton fabric. Smoldering time of two-phase dyed cotton fabrics were(8.14 ± 0.58)s and(7.90±1.43) s, respectively, and that of aqueous dyed cotton fabric were(7.70 ± 0.67) s and(8.24 ± 0.61) s, respectively. The limit oxygen index(LOI) of two-phase dyed cotton fabric was(17.60±0.05)%, close to(17.85±0.06)%, the LOI value of aqueous dyed counterparts. With regard to wear resistance, two-phase dyed cotton fabric resembled aqueous dyed cotton fabric with 24±2 and 25±2 cycles, respectively. The warp and weft elastic recovery angles of two-phase dyed cotton fabric are(68.32 ± 10.98)(°) and(65.80 ± 8.31)(°), respectively, higher than the angles of aqueous dyed cotton fabric are(57.92 ± 9.97)(°) and(54.92 ± 11.78)(°), respectively. Recovery angles of two-phase dyed cotton fabric are(62.14 ± 7.23)(°) and(54.10 ± 8.80)(°), respectively, also moderately higher than that of aqueous dyed cotton fabric. Moisture regain of two-phase dyed and aqueous dyed cotton fabrics are(8.75±0.84)% and(9.59±0.23)%, respectively, while moisture transmittance of two-phase dyed and aqueous dyed cotton fabrics are(3 827±453) and(2 562 ± 136) g/(m~2·24 h), respectively. Overall hand feeling indices of two-phase dyed and aqueous dyed cotton fabrics are 0.60±0.02 and 0.58±0.02, respectively, indicating similar hand feeling of the two fabrics.Conclusion In general, although there were some slight differences in wear performances and hand feeling between cotton fabrics dyed in a two-phase system and an aqueous system, most of the properties could meet the industry standards.更多还原