【摘要】 当波浪从深水区传播到岛礁的浅水区域时，由于珊瑚礁复杂的地形地貌，其波浪谱特征与深海中的波浪谱特征会有较大差异。根据南海西沙环礁泻湖内原位测点的波浪谱实测数据，双峰谱发生概率较大。本文首先分析了夏季台风浪和冬季东北季风浪两种典型海况下平衡范围内双峰谱的斜率，发现其斜率值与深海区有较大差异，进而得到低频峰值频率和高频峰值频率的特征值分布范围。然后基于以上分析，采用基于Ochi-Hubble谱型重构泻湖内的双峰波浪谱，得到混合波浪中风浪分量和涌浪分量的参数表达式，较好地描述了岛礁海域双峰波浪谱的特征。本文的研究成果可为近岛礁工程和海洋工程的结构物设计制造提供参考。更多还原

【Abstract】 Due to the intricate topography and geomorphology of coral reefs, waves propagating from deep waters to shallow waters near islands and reefs exhibit wave spectra that are very different from those in the deep seas. The likelihood of a bimodal spectrum is high based on the collected data of wave spectra at the in-situ measurement point in an atoll lagoon of Xisha, South China Sea. This study examined the bimodal spectrum’s slope in equilibrium range for two common sea situations, namely summer typhoon waves and winter northeast monsoon waves. It was discovered that the slope value differs significantly from that in deep waters. The distribution of the characteristic values for both the low-frequency peak frequency and the high-frequency peak frequency was then determined. Based on the above analysis, the Ochi-Hubble spectrum type was applied to reconstruct the bimodal wave spectrum in the atoll lagoon, and to obtain the parameter expression of the wind wave component and the swell component in the mixed waves, and the spectral parameter characteristics of the bimodal spectrum. The findings can serve as a reference for designing marine engineering structures in the atoll lagoon.更多还原