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符号学视角下浙南蓝夹缬被面的文化意蕴解读
Interpretation of the Cultural Implication of Southern Zhejiang Blue Clamp-resist Dyeing Quilt based on Semiotic Theory
【摘要】 [研究意义]蓝夹缬是浙南地区极具代表性的一项非物质文化遗产,其中蓝夹缬被面是浙南蓝夹缬的重要载体,寄托着浙南民间丰富的民俗文化与精神内涵。[研究方法]文章以浙南地区蓝夹缬被面为切入点,运用符号学的理论对其可感形式进行分析,构建浙南蓝夹缬的符号学系统,归纳其能指与所指,以探析浙南蓝夹缬被面符号学编码规则与其蕴含的文化价值。[研究结果与结论]研究表明:浙南蓝夹缬被面具有朴而不拙的材质工艺、应时切民的色彩搭配与寓意丰富的图案造型三项能指特征。通过符号学规则分析解码蓝夹缬被面的能指特征,可知蓝夹缬在浙南地区得以流传、保留与其上所寄托的生殖、神灵、智性崇拜息息相关,进而探讨浙南地区的婚俗文化、南戏文化、智性文化等文化意蕴,解读浙南民间特有的民俗文化和精神信仰。
【Abstract】 Southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing is a kind of folk dyeing process that uses indigo as dye and wooden stencil as tool to resist dyeing in order to dyes cotton soil embryo cloth. This process is often used to make quilts as living and wedding supplies in southern Zhejiang. In history, the clamp-resist dyeing process was one of the mainstream textile printing and dyeing processes which was very popular for a while. But the blue clamp-resist dyeing process as a product transformed from the traditional multi-color clipping was only handed down in southern Zhejiang.Based on semiotic theory, this paper analyzes the coding rules of southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilts with the help of cultural theory and folklore theory, so as to construct a semiotics system. With the help of its coding rules, the signifiers, which refer to material technology, color matching, and pattern shape, are decoded to obtain the signified, interpret the cultural implication of southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilts, and explore the reasons for the retention and development of the blue clamp-resist dyeing in southern Zhejiang. It is expected to provide help for the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. The research shows that:1) The material of the southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilts is cotton single gauze or double gauze, and the wooden stencil is used to resist dyeing in the production process. The southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilts has a highly recognizable color combination, using simple indigo and white colors, which is in line with the color concept of ritual system and folk color usage, and has the characteristics of marriage symbols.The pattern modeling follows the principle of full, multi and full, using perfectly symmetrical patterns to express a wide variety of themes.2)The symbol coding rules of the southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilts are formed based on the southern Zhejiang opera culture and folk customs. The pattern and implication conventions it follows include cultural conventions represented by the legends and stories of opera characters, symbolic convention obtained by analogy with attributes or forms of things, homophonic conventions using homophones for pattern names, and folk convention based on folk stories. In the process of using and decoding pattern symbols, relevant associations, similar associations, homophonic associations, and relevant associations are used to assign or parse the symbols carried by the quilt surface of the southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilts.3) Using the convention method and association method of the symbol coding rules to decode the pattern shape of the blue quilt surface of southern Zhejiang. Whether it is‘two dragons playing with beads’,‘dragon and phoenix showing auspiciousness’ and other themed patterns that imply the beauty of husband and wife and a successful marriage, or pomegranate, frog and other pattern elements that symbolize many seeds and many children, or simple and direct child-seeking symbols, such as pictures of a hundred children, pictures of kylins sending childrens, all reflect the reproductive worship based on the southern Zhejiang marriage culture.There are various patterns of gods and spirits on them, including the two immortals of Hehe, which originated from Buddhist legends, and the Eight Immortals in Taoist legends, Magu, which is in line with the types of gods in Nanxi, embodies the worship of gods and spirits based on Nanxi. And a variety of champion scholars as the main body pattern not only pinned the ardent expectations of the people in southern Zhejiang for the success of their descendants, but also reflect the worship of intelligence under the influence of the folk regional culture in southern Zhejiang, the literati of Jiangsu and Zhejiang and the imperial examination system.In its long development process, southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing has formed distinct technological characteristics, and has integrated the folk culture and spiritual connotation of southern Zhejiang, and has become a unique type of dyed textiles in southern Zhejiang. As a carrier of intangible cultural heritage, its cultural value and aesthetic value are much higher than practical value. This paper not only constructs the semiotic system of southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilt, but also summarizes the semiotic coding rules, and then discusses the cultural implication: marriage customs, Nanxi culture and intellectual culture, in order to interpret the unique folk culture and spiritual beliefs of southern Zhejiang. In the process of modernization, it is necessary to fully understand the folk foundation and regional culture of the southern Zhejiang blue clamp-resist dyeing quilt. Following the coding rules of its cultural system, and correctly using symbols to innovate will help the culture to be better inherited, protected and developed.
【Key words】 blue clamp-resist dyeing; clamp-resist dyeing quilt; semiotics; cultural implication; folklore theory; intangible cultural heritage;
- 【文献出处】 服饰导刊 ,Fashion Guide , 编辑部邮箱 ,2022年03期
- 【分类号】TS193.5
- 【下载频次】228