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高温煮靛法在羊毛染色中的应用

Study on the application of high temperature indigo cooking in wool dyeing

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【作者】 杨建军崔岩

【Author】 YANG Jianjun;CUI Yan;Academy of Art & Design, Tsinghua University;Dunhuang Costume Culture Research & Creative Design Center, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology;

【机构】 清华大学美术学院北京服装学院敦煌服饰文化研究暨创新设计中心

【摘要】 靛蓝自古至今都是重要的还原染料,在人类染色文化史上占有突出地位。文章在学习借鉴前人研究成果基础上,结合调研和实践体验,对高温煮靛法在羊毛染色中的应用进行梳理与总结。以葡萄糖为还原剂的染色实践表明,高温煮靛法可以满足羊毛40~85℃的染色适温要求,不仅上色率高、色牢度高、显色纯净鲜艳,还安全环保,具有可持续生态特征。研究认为,在崇尚自然、重视健康、追求时尚的当下,羊毛染色的高温煮靛法在纺织服装、纤维艺术等创新设计领域,具有非常广阔的开发应用空间。

【Abstract】 Indigo is an important vat dye since ancient times and occupies a prominent position in the history of human dyeing culture. Based on learning and referring to previous research results, combined with investigation and practical experience, the application of high temperature cooking indigo method in wool dyeing was summarized. The dyeing practice using glucose as reducing agent showed that the high temperature cooking indigo method could meet the requirements of wool dyeing at 40-85 ℃. It not only had high color rate, high color fastness, pure and bright color, but also was safe and environmentally friendly with sustainable ecological characteristics. It is believed that in the current era of advocating nature, paying attention to health and pursuing fashion, the high temperature cooking indigo method of wool dyeing has a very broad space for development and application in innovative design fields such as textile, clothing and fiber art.

【关键词】 蓝靛羊毛葡萄糖煮靛高温染色
【Key words】 indigowoolglucoseindigo cookinghigh temperature dyeing
【基金】 教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(19YJA760077)
  • 【文献出处】 毛纺科技 ,Wool Textile Journal , 编辑部邮箱 ,2021年07期
  • 【分类号】TS193.5
  • 【被引频次】1
  • 【下载频次】135
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