【摘要】 根据2012-2013年海南岛东南近岸整年海浪观测资料,初步分析了观测海域的海浪季节变化和统计特征。观测结果表明,观测海域年平均有效波高为1.28m,常浪向为东向(E),平均跨零周期为5.1s。观测海域波浪存在显著季节变化特征,主要表现为冬季型和夏季型两种波浪类型。对比观测期间影响观测海域的台风,发现从观测海域南部经过的台风"山神"对观测海域的影响远大于从北部经过的台风"启德"。台风"山神"使观测海域的波高和周期同步迅速升高到最大值5.77m和7.8s,但波向滞后约12h从东向(E)转为偏南向(SSE)。受该台风影响,各频率和各方向上的能量都迅速增加,谱峰值由高频向低频转换,方向谱由单峰结构向双峰结构转换,即台风导致了观测海域一支偏南向(SSE)浪的出现。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the one-year wave observation off the southeast coast of Hainan Island from 2012 to 2013,we give a preliminary analysis of seasonal variation and statistical characteristics of waves in the domain of observation.The observation results show that annual average of significant wave height is 1.28 m,dominant wave direction E,and zero-crossing period 5.1s.There is obvious seasonal variation for the wave in the domain of observation,and two wave modes were manifested throughout the year:the winter wave mode and summer wave mode.By comparison,we find that the significant wave height produced by typhoon " Son-tinh" which passed by on the south of the observation site is far greater than that produced by the typhoon " Kai-tak" on the north.During typhoon " Son-tinh",the wave height and zero-crossing period synchronously increase to a maximum value of 5.77 mand 7.8sin a short period,but the wave direction transfers from the E to the SSE with a half day delay.Because of the typhoon,the energy in all frequencies and directions increase rapidly,the spectrum peak shifts from high to low frequency,and the directional spectrum evolves from a unimodal to a bimodal structure.This modal transformation implies a new wave branch in SSE direction in the observation area excited by typhoon " Son-tinh".更多还原